The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2025 - Issue 38

bitecatwalk POETLAB A t London Fashion Week, Poet Lab unveiled one of the most memorable shows of the season, a deconstructed, defiant exploration of gender, tailoring, and identity. Ti- tled ‘Gentle(Wo) Man’, the collection was not just a play on words but a full-on redefinition of the codes that govern fashion's most ‘classic’ garment: the suit. Held in a stripped-back industrial venue, the setting allowed the clothes and the concept to speak for themselves. What unfolded on the runway was a visually rich, emotionally pointed narrative that challenged the binaries of menswear and womenswear, sug- gesting a fluid, expressive alternative instead. In Poet Lab’s world, the gentle and the powerful coexist. The collection reimagined tailored garments with unexpected proportions and raw edges. Blazers came oversized with exag- gerated batwing sleeves, trousers were slashed and reconstructed into entirely new silhouettes, and classic shirting was given asym- metric, layered treatments. Nothing was too polished by design. Threads hung loose, and seams were intentionally exposed. Imperfection was rebranded as a creative asset, rather than a flaw. Colour was used with restraint, allowing the silhouettes to take centre stage. Mostly monochrome with occasional earth tones and dusky metallics, the palette reinforced the focus on form. Texture played a lead role too, with soft wool, crisp cotton, frayed hems, and transparent layers brushed against one another like a poetic contradiction. The message was clear: this was fashion as both protest and poetry. The designer’s decisive move was the choice of casting and styling. Models of all identities took the stage wearing pieces that blurred gender distinctions. The accessories, from sculptur- al nail art to spiked jewellery and statement headpieces, added punk elegance without overwhelming the core design. Hair and make-up leaned towards an otherworldly look, but never towards avant-garde. A standout moment was the closing look, a sheer, sharply con- toured mesh dress wrapped in industrial cable-tie detailing. Worn by a prominent gay performer, the look summed up the entire show in one image with softness encased in strength and beauty made from the raw and the reused. Sustainability was embedded into the process, not just in the materials (many of which were repurposed) but also in the philosophy. The pieces felt adaptable, personal, and emotionally resonant, made to be worn and lived in. Creative director Giuseppe Iaciofano displayed inclusivity and mirrored identity. The collection didn't claim to redefine gen- dered fashion through slogans but refused to be limited by them. ‘Gentle(Wo)man’ was human rather than preachy. And that's what made it feel revolutionary. In a season heavy with theatrics, Poet Lab's show stood out for its sincerity. The garments were intelligent, yes, but more importantly, they felt real. https://poet-lab.com FASHION WEEK LONDON Autumn/Winter 2025