The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2025 - Issue 38

bitecatwalk HELEN ANTHONY H elen Anthony presented her AW25 collection, which dared to dance between extremes, at London Fashion Week. Titled ‘Gemini', the show explored duality, drawing on contrasts between the masculine and feminine, structure and softness, and past and future. Held at The Londoner Hotel's grand ballroom in Leicester Square, the presentation was a bold visual metaphor for the balance of opposites. Under the creative direction of Naeem Anthony, the brand has established a reputation for precise tailoring and storytelling through its silhouettes. This season, that storytelling deepened. Inspired by the astrological twin sign, Gemini explored the idea that people, garments, and identities are never just one thing. The runway opened with a Helen Anthony staple: sharply tailored suits. Plaid fabrics and wool checks rooted the collection in the British tradition, but exaggerated shoulders, slashed hems, and unexpected colour pairings gave the classics a jolt of modernity. Tailoring was king, but nothing felt rigid, reimagined for a genera- tion unafraid to blur lines. Midway through, the collection shifted gears. Fluid knitwear, oversized faux-fur coats, and hand-crocheted dresses added a softening touch. These pieces felt like the emotional heart of the show, where softness was another kind of strength. Anthony's use of sustainable, British-sourced yarns and eco-conscious materials underscored a clear commitment to ethical luxury. Textures of wool and velvet, faux fur and fine cashmere, sheer knits paired with crisp suiting clashed and conversed. The con- trasts carried conceptual weight, underscoring the complexity of identity in today's world. In Helen Anthony's vision, people contain contradictions, and their clothes should reflect that. The styling brought a subtle edge to the collection. Oversized eyewear, sharply defined bags, and statement boots introduced just the right amount of eccentricity without pulling focus. Colour was used deliberately, starting with pale lilacs and cool blues before shifting into deeper greens, burgundy, and black. The shift in tone echoed the collection's balance between softness and strength, clarity and depth. While ‘Gemini’ was an artistic exploration, it was also a wearable collection. The craftsmanship shone through, impeccable draping, refined hand embroidery, and construction that respected the body without constraining it. The balance between ready-to-wear and couture-level detail made the collection relevant for both runway and retail. Helen Anthony has opened a new store on Conduit Street in Mayfair, right in the centre of London's tailoring district. While it functions as a retail space, it also marks a shift for the brand. There's a sense of intent behind it. The label is doubling down on what it does best: sharp cuts, a strong identity, and a design that feels personal. With ‘Gemini’, Helen Anthony invites us to embrace contradictions harmoniously. It's a reminder that in the dance between tradition and reinvention, there's space for individ- uality to thrive. https://www.helenanthony.co.uk FASHION WEEK LONDON Autumn/Winter 2025