The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2025 - Issue 37

bitecatwalk The collection draws heavily from women who broke the rules to redefine their times, such as Maya Angelou, Zaha Hadid, Simone Veil, and Maria Callas. Their influence was not overly ex- pressed through prominent symbols or superfi- cial design choices. Instead, it lived within the sweeping silhouettes, the bold sculpting of bod- ices, and the quiet authority of each full-length gown. These designs didn’t reference their mus- es; they felt shaped by them. The most intimate influence came from Erziak’s mother and sister, who formed the emotion- al backbone of the show. You could sense the closeness of the inspiration: a specific drape felt like an embrace, and the way the fabrics pooled on the floor echoed shared history. What stood out most was the sculptural nature of the gar- ments. There’s nothing delicate here in the tradition- al sense; strength is sculpted into silk, and re- silience is embedded in folds of satin corseted waists, architectural shoulders, dramatic capes, and gowns layered in organza and duchess. Everything is sharp, poetic, and femininely un- apologetic. The colour story shifted like emotion, featuring flashes of fire red, royal blue, black, blush, and ivory. Each hue felt chosen for its evocative power rather than its marketability. A red column gown with an exaggerated train spoke of rage and glory, while a soft ivory number with a mould- ed bodice whispered legacy and softness. These dresses were declarations. ‘Modern Muses’ felt like Erziak claiming space for women in history, memory, and couture. Her understanding of femininity is complex and richly textured. It encompasses women who hold power and enter rooms like storms. It’s about friendship, blood ties, artistry, grief, cele- bration, and all womanhood’s messy, luminous parts. In a week filled with visual noise, Erziak offered something deeply felt. Her muses aren’t ornaments; they are architects, and her gar- ments dress and honour women. https://lenaerziak.com Tamara Ralph Tamara Ralph’s couture collection moved with the grace of music. Titled ‘Poétique Symphony’, the show unfolded at Paris Couture Week like a carefully orchestrated piece, blending emo- tion, movement, and craftsmanship into a visual performance that focused less on clothing and more on cadence, rhythm, and feeling. Ralph is well-known for her high romanticism, but she al- lowed it to reach new heights this season. Inspired by the structure and lyricism of orches- tral music, the collection followed the emotional arc of a symphony, starting with a gentle over- ture and building to a climactic crescendo, with each look as a verse or refrain. The opening piec- es were presented in pastel shades of baby yel- lows, powder mints, and the softest pinks, remi- niscent of spring’s first breath. However, these colours were not overly sweet. They shimmered with depth thanks to fab- ric choices that whispered and flowed as they moved: gossamer silk, crushed velvet, and pearlescent satin. The silhouettes were long and flowing yet precise as if each stitch had been placed with the carefulness of a musical note. Throughout the show, floral motifs served as anchors. Iris orchids embellished gowns like pressed petals on parchment, while enamelled flowers were sculpted into structured corsets and delicate headpieces. These elements were fully integrated into the garments’ architecture, akin to recurring melo- dies in a musical score. As the show progressed, colours deepened. A stunning raspberry duchess satin gown with a corseted waist and a waterfall hem conveyed passion and drama. At the same time, a sheer black ensemble featuring pleated tulle and feathered shoulders introduced a dark- er, more introspective moment. The tonal shifts mirrored the rise and fall of sym- phonic music, where lightness gave way to shad- ow before resolving into harmony. The collec- tion showcased powerful details. Woven ribbons formed delicate, cage-like patterns across the bodices, balancing vulnerability with structure. Pearls caught the light with subtle brilliance, and pleated silks unfurled softly to the turning page. One particularly memorable piece was a blush- pink cape adorned with delicate embroidery that echoed the rhythm of musical notation— understated yet deeply expressive. As always, Ralph’s commitment to haute couture crafts- manship was impeccable, but this time, it was infused with emotional clarity, with nothing feel- ing overworked or purely decorative. Each gown carried its unique melody and tem- po, serving the overarching story rather than the other way around. The final walk felt like a proper finale, with gowns gliding in unity like in- struments that had come into perfect harmony. There was no need for theatrics. The power of the garments, the resonance of their textures, and the way they caught the light communicated everything. With ‘Poétique Symphony’, Tamara Ralph reminded us that couture can be intimate, tender, and deeply expressive. https://tamararalph.com Tamara Ralph