The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2021 - Issue 29

bitecatwalk I don’t think I’ve ever seen a more perfectly selected runway set-up outside of having models walk along the Seine in Paris or down the steps by Bethesda Fountain in Central Park, New York - you nailed that one, Mr Ralph Lauren, than what Ulla Johnson chose to do this season. Deciding to wisely present a live show of models (and an acoustic folk singer) to be filmed rather than watched by an in-person audience along the stone boardwalk of Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park with the Manhattan skyline in the background was very responsible health- wise and amazingly stunning. It all felt vastly futuristic, but at the same time refreshing to see actual people walking outdoors without masks! Life in the city may have skidded to a stop, but seeing it from across the river served as a reminder that it’s still there, merely sleeping, not dead. Johnson took this time of isolating to prepare a show that denoted this particular thought. Life may be and feel like one gigantic, terrifying “What the hell?” right now, but that doesn’t mean the world stops spinning, and people completely stop living. Johnson never stopped working; she took a step back from the norm to refocus on doing her job another way until things reopened. When discussing this collection, Johnson told Nicole Phelps of Vogue.com on Zoom, “Why do less when we can do more?” Then turning serious, she added: “We’ve all been doing a lot of deep soul searching about the relevancy of what we do — the runway being one component, but also just clothing in general. For us, we’re committed more than ever to creating this transportive beauty and continuing our commitment to craft.” Johnson maintained her work relationships with her overseas production sites and still created elements of her collection with them. The first two looks were made in countries where the pandemic was severe, and it took five months to complete. She also had her handbags made in Italy, and the brass hardware on her bags was handmade in Kenya. Again, this current SS21 collection reflected her signature style of airy, whimsical ruffles, lace, soft layering fabrics and beautiful knitwear. At the same time, some well-placed acid-washed denim pieces kept things from totally floating away into the über girly realm. The palette was a rainbow of relatively muted pastels in floral prints, patterns and solids, all designed and arranged with fun and exciting pleats, ruffles and trimming details. The collection’s theme seemed to follow Johnson’s known aesthetic of light and fresh, easy and breezy, but this season, she anchored her looks with a more practical and functional approach and design. Things were still ‘dressy’ but a tad relaxed and more centred on comfort and simplicity if I can say that. Like, “I know I’m not going out to necessarily be seen in this dress, but I still want to look put together and presentable.” Her new handbag collection, which has been in the works for over a year-and-a-half, also walked the runway for the first time and helped ground these flirty and floaty ensembles. I particularly enjoyed seeing how each look was styled with her shoes, statement jewellery, and wide leather. https://ullajohnson.com ULLA JOHNSON