The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2019 - Issue 26

ROBERTA EINER PAUL COSTELLOE ROBERTA EINER PAUL COSTELLOE bite catwalk A master of tailoring, Paul Costelloe did it once again with his elegant AW19 col- lection of elegant dresses and military-inspired jackets. This collec- tion felt like the costume selection for a wartime movie with a graceful lead female role. Chic blouses in luxurious satins and silks contrasted with skin-tight leathers and heavy woollen coats. A diverse mix of fabrics and tones, from bright military red to more muted greys and camouflage shades of green; utility jackets and belts added to the presentation of theme with large statement pockets. Smart trousers in woollen cross-hatch added maturity and sophistication, while chicness was presented in the models’ styling, with sleek updos and aviator sunglasses. As the collection developed, a strong theme of romanticism appeared through ‘50s style dresses in blush reds and washout blacks, and voluminous sleeves and full skirts that moved grace- fully. Cascading ruffled skirts and glorious velvets added vibrancy throughout the pieces. A standout piece in the form of a floor-length camel brown high-neck dress fitted the body and bloomed into a gathered hem. Elegance and perfection, nothing less was expected from a brand that has mastered the female form. Cinched in waists, complemented by thick leather belts presented an edginess, en- hanced further through busy dark florals and somewhat gothic skin-tight leather bustiers. The main protagonist of the col- lection went to the amazing crafted coats and jackets of Italian wool, statement motifs, and golden trims, with blocky shoulders and equestrian style trousers. It was glamour at its finest. www.paulcostelloe.com S et to a backdrop of beautiful vibrant flowers, courtesy of flower compa- ny Rebel Rebel, Roberta Einer paid homage to her grandmother’s life and wardrobe. She referenced her Estonian heritage through colour and print, in keeping with her brand’s modern trendy vision. Chic and sensual and all-round fun, Einer showcased a collection of blazer jackets, mini dresses, casual printed tops, and playful miniskirts. Standouts from the show included heavily embellished blazer dresses and incredible beaded thigh-high boots that looked amazing in motion. Not one to shy away from embroidery and beading, Einer once again cham- pioned this throughout the collection, from floral motifs on jacket sleeves to chandelier beaded trims lining skirts adding a playfulness to a collection of nostalgic tartans, in bright red and deep greens. Draping played a part in the look of certain pieces, from dresses that cascaded along the body, to wrap- around tops. A statement to the Roberta Einer brand came in her use of digitalised textiles and trendy graphic tops, with imagery taken from Soviet Union postcards, that could easily be paired with any of the supporting garments. Heavily beaded earrings rounded off the collection and brought it all together, adding glamour to a playful collection that would be well suited to any modern woman who likes to party. Patches of large sequins added a contemporary feel to some of the more ‘vintage’ fabrics, designed beautifully. Many of the pieces from this collection had been modernised from Einer’s grandmother’s wardrobe, playing into the current trends of today, while upscaling. www.robertaeiner.com