The Bite Magazine - Summer 2012 - Issue 5

N orthern Mozambique remains wild, beautiful and untamed. Although getting around takes time, the coastal panoramas, sense of space and adventure, not to mention some of Africa’s most idyllic lodges, makes the journey a worthwhile one. Along the coast, lapped by the Indian Ocean, is an endless succession of unspoilt beaches and islands, plus the UNESCO World Heritage site at Ilha de Moçambique. This trip combines both the cultural experience of the mainland coast with the delights of a private island stay. After flying into Nampula, travelling an easy couple of hours on tarmac to Ilha de Moçambique, and taking a 15 minute boat ride, we arrived at Coral Lodge 15.41. Coral Lodge 15.41 (the numbers represent the latitude and longitude) is the epitome of barefoot luxury. The lodge is situated at the end of a sandy pit at the tip of the Varanda nature reserve, the only property for miles, and this location affords a degree of exclusivity that other beach resorts do not have.The ten thatched-roof guest villas each have sitting areas, a bedroom, bathroom and a spacious terrace. Built on top of the dunes to make the most of the views and the constant Indian Ocean breeze, half of the villas line the beach on one side and the other half overlook the mangrove lagoon and Ilha de Moçambique on the other side. The decor is contemporary and unfussy, a blend of African and modern European style. Colourful textiles incorporate the colours of the surrounding environment, and furniture is speckled coconut from Zanzibar, alongside African carvings and masks, and oversized Moroccan lights. The food at Coral Lodge is worthy of any fine urban restaurant, and we enjoyed the bounty of the Indian Ocean in the form of fish tempura, lobster kebabs and poached barracuda in banana leaves. The breakfast platter of fresh fruit, pastries and cheese looked too good to eat, but that didn’t stop us! A great experience for foodies is to visit the local market with the chef and come back to the lodge to learn how to cook a delicious meal using local produce. Due to its unique location, there are plenty of varied activities on offer at Coral Lodge. On a couple of days we opted to stay on property and enjoyed lounging by the infinity pool, a drink in hand. The spa looks out over the lagoon, and treatments are ministered by local women trained by the lodge. I enjoyed the traditional Musiro face mask, which helps to protect skin from the sun. For keen scuba divers, there’s an instructor on site, but even as a snorkeler we were still able see the local shipwrecks lying in their shallow watery graves.You can also snorkel in the lagoon just yards from the lodge – great for beginners and children as its extremely safe – and see the reefs and amazing array of juvenile tropical fish in waist- height water. In an energetic moment, we FOR AN ADVENTURE THAT IS WILD, EXCITING AND CHALLENGING, CONSIDER THE REMOTE AND BEAUTIFUL NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE. ANNABEL GOLDIE-MORRISON EXPLORES ONE OF THE CONTINENT’S LAST WILD FRONTIERS AND EXPERIENCES CULTURAL LIVING ON THE MAINLAND AS WELL AS THE DELIGHTS OF A PRIVATE ISLAND STAY IN THIS VIRTUALLY UNTOUCHED AND GORGEOUS HOLIDAY DESTINATION. nor t h e rn Mozambique