The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2025 - Issue 37

bitecatwalk P aul Costelloe’s Spring-Summer 2025 show, ‘Le Ciel Est Bleu’, was a breath of fresh, fragrant air, a romantic ode to Paris in bloom. As the show began, the audience felt transported to a sunlit stroll down Boulevard Saint-Germain, where the soft palette of early spring graced each garment like a gentle morning breeze. The title, which trans- lates to ‘The sky is blue’, perfectly captured the mood. The collection was optimistic, tender, and unhurried, embracing joy with unapologetic lightness. A haze of radiant pastels swept across the runway: baby blues, washed lilacs, apricot blush, buttery yellows were painted across sumptuous Irish linens, crisp cotton, and whisper-light jacquards. Costelloe’s pieces exuded a youthful spirit without veering into naiveté. There was an elegant awareness in his construction of movement: tiered ruffle hems rippled as models walked, smocked detailing provided structure to oth- erwise fluid silhouettes, and balloon sleeves balanced delicate neckline scoops. Linen dresses drifted like night from A Midsummer Night’s Dream , while tai- lored silk skirts grounded the nostalgic romanticism with elements pointing toward the future. The set design, created by Costelloe’s son, William, masterfully supported the collection’s visual cohesion. The print featured across dresses, blouses, and silk sets acted as a gentle thread, weaving together the ‘Ode to Paris’ narrative. It offered a painterly intimacy remi- niscent of watercolours found in a Left Bank atelier, with accessories elegantly spotlighted. Paul Costelloe bags dyed in soft blush and muted sage complemented the ensembles like dewdrops on petals. Angela Brady’s iridescent jewellery, crafted with an architect’s precision and a poet’s sensibility, provided luminosity without excess. Together, they formed an ensemble of refined routines. However, the designer did not stop there. This season marked the debut of the Paul Costelloe Bridal Collection and his first hosiery line. The bridal offerings embodied his grace- ful, nostalgic, and feminine vision, featuring gowns adorned with subtle pleating, organza overlays, and floral embroidery that appear to dance in the light. The hosiery collection introduced a contemporary edge, offering sleek lines and soft sheens that elevated the looks with quiet polish. While many designers this season looked inward or backwards, Costelloe kept his optimistic yet grounded gaze upward. His signature wit shone through in the final message: “I am still seeking the Golden Fleece.” This sentiment feels deeply human, suggesting that after decades in the business, the pursuit of beauty, meaning, and crafts- manship is never truly finished. Costelloe conveys that fashion can whisper in linen, shimmer in silk, and smile in pastels. Sometimes, that whisper proves to be the most enduring sound of all. www.paulcostelloe.com PAUL COSTELLOE FASHION WEEK LONDON Spring/Summer 2025