The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2025 - Issue 37

bitedesignerprofile Labrum London paid homage to the families divided by borders and oceans yet united through correspondence in its AW23 ‘From Greener Pastures’ collec- tion, showcased in Brixton Village, south London. The collection explored the harsh realities of family separation in search of a better life in an alien land. Using genuine travel documents and passports poignantly symbolises crossing borders to reach new pastures. It also represented the barriers preventing migrants’ freedom of move- ment. Taking inspiration from Samuel Selvon’s 1956 novel The Lonely Londoners and Danell Jones’ book An African in Imperial London , the collection explored the jux- taposition between dream and reality that comes with migration. Its muted tones saw brown and olive green evoking nostalgic recollections like soil being left behind in pursuit of prosperity in a foreign land. A trench coat featured a photograph of pass- port stamps and a varsity jacket with the signature Nomoli character on the back. In May 2023, Labrum London was award- ed the Queen Elizabeth II Award for Brit- ish Design by King Charles III and joined the NEWGEN initiative for 2023-2024. “It was one of the highest accolades you could have in the area of work we’re into, so it has impacted the brand a lot in a certain way,” Foday revealed in an interview with the UAL London College of Fashion. “It opened doors to places you’d probably struggle to get into before, and I think it also propelled the brand to go global.” Nomoli figurines, the lasting remnants of a bygone Sierra Leonean and Liberian empire, were the starring role in Labrum London’s SS24 ‘Nomoli Odyssey’ collec- tion. It examined the strength of cultural identity, the depths of human connection, and migration threads. Using the basis of masquerades and folktales, blazers in mask prints inspired by the Mende and Temne tribes, raffia, and similar frayed fabrics appeared throughout the collection. The AW24 ‘Designed By An Immigrant: Journey of Colours’ collection celebrated the diverse and vibrant cultures of immi- grants who overcame adversity and made significant contributions to the art and fashion world. The improv patchwork on the Naimbana blazer symbolised the har- monious fusion of different cultures. Vin- tage suitcases, a 1970 adidas bowling bag in monogram fabrics, a striking bowl hat in coiled hemp braid, kulfi-style crowns, and patchwork buckets appeared. This season’s SS25 ‘Designed by An Im- migrant: Journey of Triumphs’ collection saw the brand, Arsenal, and adidas make history by holding a first-of-its-kind run- way show pitch side at Arsenal’s Emirates Stadium. In bold tones of orange, green, and pink, the collection featured playful wraps and drapes, such as the Tuareg wrap stitched with raffia and the Pan-African adidas stripe, headwear, fedoras inspired by Les Sapeurs and tie-top baseball caps in trademark textiles with fringing. By revealing the beauty of his hometown, its vibrant music, significant figures like Prince Naimbana and Olaudah Equiano, movement in sound, poetics, freedom and immigrants, we have learned extensively about Sierra Leone and its capital city. https://labrumlondon.com LFW AW/22 LFW AW/24