The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2023 - Issue 34

bitefashion Nully Amiri Nully Amiri looked to her family heritage and Iranian references to create her opulent yet relaxed ‘Woven Past’ menswear collection. She used sump- tuous devore-etched velvet in a standout suit and heavy embroidery motifs derived from traditional Persian carpet patterns. Fluid, oversized shapes in muted tones of soft earth, slate and stone focused on layers of rich fabric textures. Fringed detailing was used in homage to the renowned Iranian textile traditions, connecting the designer with its dress codes and pow- erful influences of a country she left as a child with a familiar yet distant relationship. Nancy Stewart Inspired by the powerful spirit of French novelist Emile Zola’s fiction- al character, Nana, Nancy Stewart’s bold namesake collection referenced Victorian and Edwardian fashion reinvented in playful colours. Decora- tive cord detailing adorned a standout jacket, and blazing shades of orange formed extravagant bows on draped gowns. A dramatic, oversized printed Crane bird motif presented a personal link to family connections. She di- rectly worked with fabrics to create 3D forms, yielding an uncompromis- ing, opulent and exuberant collection. Soma Faitanin In her ‘Chagrin Canon’ collection, Soma Faitanin presented an arresting, opulent beauty in her sculptural, crafted pieces. She used hidden 3D-print- ed prosthetics to create subtly curved silhouettes and ‘armoured’ metal adornments to emphasise the shoulders. In her designs, a distinct perso- na was restrained physically and metaphorically by suspending controlled movement. Tones of pale ivory to dark earth were featured throughout the collection, while softness was balanced with structure and punctuated with protruding metal closures. The striking sheepskin jackets formed cocoons of comfort and protection, bolstering the wearer from the outside forces. Mae Donohoe An advocate for tackling fashion industry pollution, Mae Donohoe looked to her roots in working-class Middlesbrough to influence her ‘Look North’ collection. She used recycled and reinvented fabrics and trims to create fresh, eclectic, edgy one-off pieces, drawing nostalgic inspiration from the plush interiors of Northern pub culture and social clubs. The designer ref- erenced rich brocade curtains and pelmets, shiny fringing and Brown Ale beer labels in her collection with cropped, angular and irreverent shapes in the jackets and trousers. Sassy mini dresses were adorned with brass cur- tain rings, and a brocade suit featured chaotic fringe detailing. https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers/university-of-westminster-ba graduate WEEK fashion 2023 Nully Amiri Nancy Stewart