The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2023 - Issue 34

bitefashion Sam Donnelly-Boote Sam Donnelly-Boote Sam Donnelly-Boote's ‘Façade’ collection, entranced by the delicacy, precision and particularity of early 19th-century menswear, explored the desired aes- thetic and exacting silhouette of the time. Whilst body insecurity hid imper- fection, the designer used precise cutting and tailoring to create ‘perfect’ but false silhouettes and investigated the paradox of exposure and concealment. The collection featured varying transparencies and the finest silks and cotton in subtle shades of stone, ivory and white. Butter-soft goatskin and precise braiding were key highlights in this sensual and bold statement. Anna Rókusfalvy A countdown to a rural family holiday tradition and nostalgia for her Hungar- ian homeland, Anna Rókusfalvy balanced handcrafted texture and fluid shapes in her modern ‘Ó, ló, Ció’ womenswear collection. Her pieces were informed by the country’s renowned artisan heritage and the annual hedonistic joys of summer, family gatherings and folk customs. The designer reinvented tradi- tional tapestry and crochet using tablecloths and referenced beaded curtain room dividers. A subtle colour palette reflected her study of a wealthy family archive of vintage photographs that inspired the polished collection. Zachary Shaw The late contemporary artist Richard Smith was the focal point of Zachary Shaw’s ‘After Euphoria’ collection. It showed the graphic language of Smith’s kite painting translated through the designer’s bold vision to reinvent tradi- tional British staples, such as the duffle and the peacoat. Shaw studied the art- ist’s specific artworks, reimagining them through experimental pattern-cutting and construction techniques. He used unconventional fabric and colour com- binations by mixing wool with nylon and neutrals with startling bright yellow and pink derived from the artwork. His inventive silhouettes were balanced with simple pieces reflecting the designer's versatility. Anna Rókusfalvy Zachary Shaw