The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2023 - Issue 33

bitecatwalk EDWARD CRUTCHLEY FASHION WEEK LONDON Spring/Summer 2023 W ho says car parks aren’t sexy locations for catwalks? Es- pecially when towering models wear platform shoes that propel them upwards, barely avoiding a collision with low ceilings. However, despite it being an odd setting choice (in my opinion) to host their SS23 show, given the inspired ancient Greek sea god Proteus, it was a tranquil collection to watch walk. Calling more on the idea and root meaning of the name, which is Protean: tending or having the ability to change frequently and quickly, the collection didn’t reference any traditional Greek styles, designs or silhouettes specifically. Instead, it drew upon this definition of shapeshifting and re- interpretation. Edward Crutchley is known for his desire to create wonderfully gender-free and fluid pieces meant to be worn without traditional gender fashion constraints, so it’s with little surprise he wanted to drive home the idea that beauty, above all, is vital in an individual’s style. He tried to use this collection to fight against those saying being home and free in one’s own body is wrong. “Beauty, I always think that’s the best way to protest. Make something beautiful that expresses your sentiment. That’s the way to win people around to show them what you believe, in the most beautiful way pos- sible,” he told Sarah Mower from Vogue in September 2022. With this ethereal and aquatically/coastal-driven colour scheme, this collection was calm seas and smooth sailing. There wasn’t any actual structural theme to the pieces, yet everything felt idyllical- ly light and effervescent. A series of inky navy, cobalt and sapphire blue shades in iridescent, crinkled fabrics glistened like moonlit wa- ters began the show, transitioning into vivid ombre sunrise and sunset hues. Look #13’s rainbow agate cross-section patterned belted coat is a thing of dreams. The walk concluded with emerald greens and muted metal- lic purples with a voluminous ruffled dress that read a bit too jellyfish-like to me, but the idea was easily interpreted. My favourite looks had to be the rainbow coat in look #13 - seriously gorgeous and the long knitted bat-winged pale dusty pink and blended tie- dyed violet v-neck cardigan that would be beautifully layered over an all-white full bodysuit and look #19. Few things make me do a double take, but this skimpy ensemble of a pink sequinned embroi- dered cupless bra and bikini briefs took guts to wear no matter your gender. www.edwardcrutchley.com