The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2022 - Issue 32

bitefashion A lways and forever, Bluma- rine has remained one of the fashion industry’s lead- ing brands for the sultry yet sweetly coquettish pieces every empowered person should have in their wardrobe arsenal. This AW22 season, creative director Nicola Brognano presented yet another extensive collection of 56 looks that beckoned heavily to Helmut Newton’s beloved photographic aes- thetic beguiling femme fatale. Newton was an inspiration, but his photos took modern fashion to another level. They captivate and seduce the onlooker with their gripping, sometimes gritty, but always touching portraits. The fact he shot some of Blumarine’s past ad cam- paigns is what inspired Brognano this season. The AW22 assemblage showed signifi- cant growth for Bragnano, who mixed snippets from his previous collection’s more sugary and spice personas by in- jecting it with some considerable um- ami! Gone were the pastel-clad girlie- girls; instead, the strong, empowered, sexy women who aren’t here to play but to dominate. Vogue’s Tiziana Cardini quoted stylist Lotta Volkova who as- sisted Bragnano, “She isn’t so pretty and girly anymore—or at least not only. She has grown into a strong, sexy woman who commands her body and is powerful. She is a glamorous vamp.” The collection entirely encapsulated this feeling of ‘grr baby!’ in the best way; with the ‘80s and ‘90s glam rock and a strong palette of crimson reds, plum purples, and inky blacks, this added drama to the heritage pastels of the brand. Overall, the edgy and sophisticated juxtaposition was fun to see. I loved the rainbow of coloured thigh- high nylons, pops of liquid sequinned netted pieces and, of course, the coats! I’m such a sucker for gorgeous outer- wear. Look #37, a bubble gum pink knitted floor-length duster coat with a pink fur collar, is the ultimate in a girlie overcoat. Also, the long pearl-draped gown with the plunging neckline and pale gold hue was lovely. It reminded me of a modernised take on Audrey Hepburn’s iconic white gown she wore in My Fair Lady as Eliza Dolittle. www.blumarine.com/en BLUMARINE