The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2021 - Issue 30

bitecatwalk T o say Fendi put on a favolosa show would be an under- statement coming from this diehard, neutral-loving-lady who is only too happy to see the theme of most col- lections shifting back towards the more accessible elevated everyday wear. Having had a major resurgence and brand over- haul in the last few seasons, Fendi has come back as a fierce force in fashion by not only gaining in popularity among the social media star set but also by salvaging attention from their former industry admirers. It also helps that the brand hired British designer, Kim Jones, as the new creative director. As such, one can see the signifi - cant English ‘style' subtly peppered into each piece and look that walked through the impressive F-shaped vitrine studded runway designed by the talented Damien Hirst. The design also played with mirrors to make it seem like the models were walking more as a group rather than having to do a socially-dis - tanced strut, which was the case. Drawing from the brand’s deep Roman roots, Jones gained major inspiration from the Fendi family’s legacy itself. Adele and Eduardo Fendi opened their first shop on Via del Plebiscito in 1926, when they began selling the now-iconic Selleria bags and other leather pieces. From then on, Fendi has remained a family operated label despite being bought by LVMH in 2001. However, this collection is a beautiful homage to the heritage of the brand. Jones has been able to take not only ideas from vintage looks but the actual material in some cases - hello AMAZING fox fur coat in look #18, I’m ogling you - to rein - troduce past collection pieces and editions that have been reinvented for the modern fashionista. As a whole, this season’s collection was a rich display of chic autumnal comfort. From the warm and cosy neutral palette of creams, camels, mochas, smokey greys and inky blacks, which Jones drew on from the shades that have always been found in Fendi’s wheelhouse and organic colours of Rome. The use of fine, luxurious fabrics and furs with contrasting patterns and sleek silhouettes, also saluted back to the history of the brand by honouring the designs of the founders’ five daughters Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda, who introduced them years ago. It was these women who also hired Karl Lagerfeld in 1965, and one can see how his trademark ‘F’ logo and take on ‘Fun Fur’ has been recycled and updated in this collection. I suppose, the entire theme of the show was really about how Fendi is working steadfastly to reinvent itself to be more ethical in its materials and manufacturing, and also to dig their heels into figuring out what their customers truly desire. Things have majorly shifted focus in the last two years. I for one, ‘oohed’ and ‘awed’ at the updated silhouettes and feminine detailing of the exquisite tailoring that hugged and enfolded each model. The slinky slip dresses from the ‘90s, the bombers jackets, the fabulous woollen midi-skirts, knitted crop tops paired with boxy boy shorts and knee-length riding boots, not to mention the seriously gorgeous handbags! It was such a welcomed break from the baggy, slouchy fit that seemed to have domi - nated the past few seasons. I throw my arms open wide, and hungrily welcome back formal-ish dressing! https://www.fendi.com/gb/