The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2021 - Issue 30

bitejewellery J oseph Ramsay is an extremely talented couture jewellery de- signer who was featured at Sotheby’s Diamonds last autumn. His capsule collection ‘The Fabric of Jewellery’ showcased eight to-die-for pieces each designed around jaw-dropping dia- monds. These glittering items of self-adornment appear like piec- es one would expect to find in a modern-day princess’s treasure chest. “The eight pieces marry world-class diamonds with impec- cable craftsmanship and highly original designs. Featuring excep- tional blue, pink, yellow and white diamonds, the collection was informed by Ramsay’s fascination with haute couture and frequent visits to the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York where he found inspiration in the luxurious Renaissance garments and the flowing drapery of Ancient sculpture,” said Sotheby on their web- site. Drawing from this spectacular collection, I had to wonder, “Who is this guy and what inspires such beautiful jewellery?” Having grown up in Long Island, Ramsay decided to stay close to home and moved to New York City when he was 17 to attend FIT and be part of the Jewellery and Design Program. However, his passion for jewellery design began a few years prior when he was fourteen. “I had always been an artist and a sculptor. I began designing jewellery at fourteen, after seeing a demonstration by a jeweller that highlighted her wax carvings. I immediately enrolled in her class. After sculpting in wax, I began designing seriously after seeing the contemporary renderings being produced by Van Cleef & Arpels and the Jewels by JAR exhibit at the Met.” Ramsay continues to draw a great deal of his inspiration for his collection of bespoke pieces from visiting the Met and other mu- seums and art exhibits, but also from a wider array of sources. “I’m currently inspired by the intersection of biodiversity, drag fash- ion, palaeontology, and fauvist art. I appreciate the drama, clash of colours, and unique morphology that these inspirations share. My process begins with a pencil sketch and depending upon the piece, I take it to watercolour or digital drawing, where the final idea is realised. I was entranced by the very first trapiche emerald I ever saw. I enjoy rare agate and chalcedony - they’re definitely next in line. I’d kill to do a piece in cobalt spinel.” He further goes on to provide examples of such works. “My 'To- diramphus' Ring is an exercise in a singular form. It’s a solitaire that grasps the finger in a new way. The form was inspired by the swept-back wings of a Kingfisher as it dives in pursuit of a tasty morsel. The Padlock Bracelet, designed for Sotheby’s, was based on accretion disks, congealed bands of interstellar ice and dust form- ing around black holes - a perfect analogue for the highly com- pressed carbon they’re mounting. The Umbellata Earrings were inspired by the Dumbo Octopus' splay of tentacles. Their subtle undulations are suggested by the waves of mounted melee.” As such, Ramsay has a very specialised way of then harnessing those ideas and transforming them into sparkling trinkets! If one scroll through his Instagram account, one can see his process of production unfold. From the intricate and detailed sketches to the raw stones and materials he uses, to the dazzling debuts of the final products, every piece Ramsay creates is magnificent and of the highest quality. The magnitude of expertise seen in his work is truly impeccable. He additionally sources inspiration and his ma- terials from around the world. “Each year, I rely on the inspirational wares available in Tucson; Idar-Oberstein [in Germany] is invariably a reliable source; mate- rial from Thailand, India, and Sri Lanka is often contributing to a piece’s value; and for spectacular diamonds, I depend on a number of vintage dealers.” Now, I’m not a jewellery expert by any stretch of the imagination, however, I do admit to being insanely picky when it comes to the jewellery I choose to wear. I think that’s why I’m so infatuated with Ramsay’s work. He fabricates exclusivity, rareness, designs which for most of us are utterly unobtainable works of wearable art. “Right now, I’m creating a lot of one-of-a-kind pieces for clients, which has been really exciting, because I have been able to exper- iment with some rarely seen materials,” he shared. “Following the collaboration with Sotheby’s, I was lucky enough to consult on a number of dream projects, and I really have enjoyed getting to de- sign for forward-thinking companies and individuals.” As for what he likes to create the most? Earrings and rings. “I love working with interestingly shaped earrings and rings. Earrings have such phenomenal potential to frame the face and rings are so pleasura- ble to the wearer when crafted atypically.” With such talent, one must expect his collection and pieces to be available everywhere, but not so fast. Ramsay is one smart cookie in my opinion by continuing to remain rather limited and very special. “I’d like to increase the number of galleries with which I work. I’m hoping to build my brand into the go-to for the client who's looking for magical and phenomenal pieces. My dream cli- ents are Charli XCX, Amanda Gorman, and Tayce! Self-assured, sharp, and knowledgeable is how I think of my ideal clientele.” Overall, however, he expresses that his desired audience would simply be the self-aware and confident person who knows what they want. “My main demographic is the confident individual who knows how their style is best expressed. The aspect of designing jewellery I love most is that I get to help people with self-expres- sion. Jewellery is so extraordinarily personal. I love being able to learn who someone is, or to imagine what they’d like to say.” That being said, I’m almost afraid to share Mr Ramsay’s brilliance with you. My newfound friend has the gift of creating uniquely de- signed, one-of-a-kind precious jewels. I worry if the word gets out, he’ll no longer be my secret source for all that glitters and shines, but… I can’t do that. He’s just simply too good not to share with the world! And the world is this man’s pearl-filled oyster, just waiting to be discovered. “I hope that I keep being afforded the luxury of making what I want, when I want, and to push the boundaries of form and function while expanding the scope of the craftspeople with whom I work.” www.sothebys.com images courtesy of Joseph Ramsay