The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2021 - Issue 29

bitecatwalk EMPORIO ARMANI D ear fashion insider: “As you know, given the health restraints regarding travelling, it is not yet possible for me to do my shows in the usual manner. I have, however, thought of an alternative.” Mr Armani is a clever man. He will always and forever be known for being a step ahead of the game, and this time, given the cra- zy circumstances, he presented his latest SS21 digitally, but with something extra. He sent the lovely note written above to all those invited and a Bois d’Encens scented candle to be lit and enjoyed as one watched the presentation from home. We may not be there in person, but we can certainly be there olfactorily. For this collection, Armani presented several films, but to be completely honest, I was a bit confused by the overall theme, purpose, and direction. I’m not even sure what to describe them as other than very well directed commercials. I was lost as to why there was this looming orb in one and why the mod- els felt so robotic - too artistically developed for my comprehension, I’m afraid. However, we’ll focus on the stills of the collection, which can be more easily seen and deciphered. Overall, the 71 looks in the collection reminded me of a lighter, friendly version of the Matrix. Say goodbye to the heavy black and patent leather concoctions of that science fiction hit, and hello to light, bright and neutral ensembles. Flirty and easy-going, these felt like clothes to wear when we’re allowed to see and touch other people again. Organically free, the ease of this collection was evident in the use of fine, lightweight lines, silks, and organzas. Sheer and layered dresses were constructed not to hug the body necessarily, but to sway with it. As usual, there was a serious- ness to the tone of the show, but again, everything felt surprisingly light, even for a spring/summer show. It was calming and quiet, delicate and not overly pretentious or heavily accessorised. I personally liked how Armani played with differing volumes in the silhouettes, mixing and matching fitted with the oversized, tailored and the untucked, billowy with the cinched, or simply going full-blown casual in the fit. It was odd to see a more ‘comfort- able’ approach to things rather than a stiff and rigid collection. The dresses, in particular, were gorgeous and almost ethereal, but again, tangible for the everyday life of the future. www.armani.com/gb/armanicom FASHION WEEK MILAN Spring/Summer 2021