The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2021 - Issue 29

bitefashion Garden’ collection, published by Hunger TV Magazine. In September 2020, the designer made a capsule collec- tion of monochromatic jumpsuits for Brooklyn Fashion Week. Claire’s designs are easy-going yet structural with a bal- ance between elegance and wit, funkiness and comfort- ability, originality and tradition. Thanks to her radically inclusive vision of colours, cuts and pattern, her collec- tions are not assigned to a single gender, body type, skin colour, age or season. She is also committed to a sustain- able practice of using at least 80% of industry surplus fabrics and trims and maintaining a ‘no overstock’ policy to reduce waste. The first of three collections created in 2020 is called ‘Ka- leidoscope’ - Motocross-inspired designs made from a kaleidoscope of CF Studio’s surplus fabrics, which pre- sents a series of soft armour playsuits. These outfits in an expression of bright colours, which Claire loves to work with, include pink, yellow, black and white stripes, and military green, with red or black mesh, and asymmetric shapes that bring out the contrast of each design. The second is 'Lucky Numbers', a playful collection with a bolt of glam rock consisting of ready-to-wear in quilted fabrics with layers of felt circles, zippers, and drawstrings adornments. It uses bold patterns to create texture, depth and tactility, while puffed numbers and letters provide subliminal messages throughout the collection. Also, in shades of pink and yellow with a tartan accent, white with pink flamingo and palm trees prints, and glorious red that will make you take notice. The last collection is 'The Garden', a fashion utopia with a distinctly DIY feel featuring leaves and petals, recycled shopping bags, tongue-in-cheek patterns, and cuts. The designs are also committed to a radically inclusive vision with colours, cuts and patterns that are not assigned to a single gender, body type, skin colour, age or season. These naturally inspired pieces consist of pastel pink, green, and white accents on crop tops, skirts, tracksuit, and a sheer lime green leotard with pastel green petals. Fashion to Claire is a means of expression, and she was inspired to get into fashion design through her love of clothing. “I’ve always been interested in more extrava- gant or avant-garde looks. When I made theatre, I was always involved in the styling, and it was one of my fa- vourite aspects of creating a production.” As a fashion designer, she strives to be original: “meaning original to me. I don’t usually linger to one particular style or shape for very long; always looking to innovate myself.” She is also always on the lookout for gender fluidity. “I’ve been accused of feminising menswear, for instance: an accusation I bear with pride.” Another goal that the designer is actively working on is sustainability. When it comes to NYC’s fashion, Claire would define it as “a rather practi- cally dressed crowd, with a few highly appreciated ac- cents; like I saw someone this morning in a full-length puffy coat and lilac hair: it made my day!” Being a fashion designer and having her own label allows Claire to be in charge of everything, including “designs, aesthetics, projects, photoshoots: being an artistic direc- tor as well as business manager as well as manufacturer. It also is a 24/7 endeavour.” She would describe her design signature as colourful, structured yet easy gender-fluid designs and says she rarely spends more than three days on one piece, but… sometimes a garment needs to sit on a mannequin for a bit until I know how to finish it.” The first article of clothing that she designed was a two- piece suit with pointy shoulders. Today, the designer be- lieves that a quality garment needs design, construction, fabric choice, and craftspersonship in sewing. As a free- styling designer, Claire says she makes a very primitive sketch and then constructs as she goes along. She also revealed that the best thing about designing clothes is the fantasy of trying to create something new, which inspires her every time. Many fashion designers inspire Claire, but high on her list are Pam Hogg, Vivienne Westwood, Jeremy Scott, Alessandro Michele, Charles Jeffreys and Rei Kawakubo. She referenced supermodel Iman as her favourite and praised her, saying, “the elegance of her walking is un- surpassed.” The designer admits she would like to dress everyone in the celebrity realm that she hasn’t dressed yet, but highlighted actors and pop/rock stars such as Ri- hanna, King Princess, Michael Clark and Grace Jones as the main ones. In preparation for a fashion shoot or show, the designer has several weeks of meetings with her partner and art- ist collaborator Cash Levi Exum. Here, they would scout models from their circles of friends and people they meet, those they have seen on social media, or castings they want to photograph in the garments. They would also decide on the set and the general feel and put to- gether make-up and hair inspirations. She added that planning a fashion show is similar to organising a the- atre show. For aspiring fashion designers, Claire would advise them: “Create what you want to create and make your own world. It is hard work, and you want to enjoy the process, so it better be something you like to be around for a while! Also, make things for your friends at first to see how the garments ‘live’. The designer's own fash- ion goals are to create unique and inspiring collections throughout the year, dress more dancers and performers, and collaborate with other inspiring artists more. We look forward to seeing more of Claire Fleury’s col- ourful and extravagant avant-garde designs. www.clairefleury.com RY STUDIO