The Bite Magazine - Autmn/Winter 2020 - Issue 28

bitecatwalk T he London-based womenswear brand established by Chinese designer Yuhan Wang portrayed feminine strength under the lens of romantic nostalgia and powerfully expanded upon the hyper-feminine and whimsical elegance. Yuhan Wang has pre- sented collections that root themselves in a poetic philosophy of championing un- derstated beauty, and subversively decon- structing the traditional notions of female fragility and sensitivity. Yuhan Wang’s AW20 collection called ‘Who Fell Asleep’ is very appropriate for the times we are going through. The theme of the collection stems from the designer be- ing intrigued by the rituals of the morning and funeral ceremonies infused with the beautiful spirit of melancholy. “In the Vic- torian era, young, strong-minded women prepared using symbols and black lace in their garments, as a way of cherishing life in the now,” stated Wang. This AW20 is her first collection as a solo designer where she has expanded upon the East/West fusion towards feminine sensi- bility. She also likes to reference Victorian silhouettes. Her collection featured a mid- calf fishtail skirt, waisted jackets, cut and frayed edged floral tapestry print, and a reversible faux Astrakhan coat and skirt in gold hammered satin. There were other el- egant coats in black and blue jacquard with exaggerated lapels and a bohemian air with black lace introduced in flounced blouses. Wang’s signature ruched and draped stretch satin dresses were featured in this show, in- cluding hand-drawn rosebuds, goldfish, and water grass prints. The goldfish print represents prosperity and good health while flowers bring vitality. The designer likes to abstract prints, so they appear out of focus or not recognisable. Cotton lace, faux fur of water lily motifs were all incorporat- ed in this collection. Louis heeled fabric button boots and pumps with whimsical pearl jewellery were a conspicuous display of cultural symbol- ism; a flux between the idea of traditional Chinese femininity and its connections to Western culture. In the designer’s last four seasons, Yuhan Wang has sold collections to internationally renowned luxury stores and boutiques all over the world. https://yuhanwang.com YUHANWANG