The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2020 - Issue 27

bite fashion She explained the design has taken a more exclusive direction and the more conscious development within Custommade suits her well. Interestedly, the brand has an exclusive line within the main ready-to-wear collection balled ‘By Number Styles’ which are more exclusive in terms of fabrics, design, and price but are also pieces that will stay in our wardrobes forever. Giving her outlook on the Danish capital’s fashion, she said, “Everyone knows that Copenhagen is a really small capital with a really easy and relaxed approach to fashion. We all use our bicycles every day which means a lot of people have a practical issue with clothing. With that said, I am extremely happy that we want to be more extrav- agant in the design direction, and not so obsessed with practicality. At the same time, Denmark has become very important within fashion with a lot of talented designers, so there is something we’re doing right.” Being the head of design at Custommade, Anne can focus on and design the clothes she would want to wear herself and not what people want from her. “That must be the top benefit of the job,” she added. Instead of using the common phrase ‘less is more’ the brand’s design signature is ‘more is more’. She elaborated on this by saying, “I want the sleeves to be big and puffy and really feminine. The ruffles to be exaggerated and when others go minimalis- tic, we maximise the design. But my keywords are always refined and delicate for Custommade.” Even as a young child, she had the subject of designing in her mind. “As a young kid, my first experience was [mak- ing] a jersey cardigan. I kind of stole some jersey fabric from my mom and sewn a cardigan while she was asleep. I guess I was ten years old.” When she was much older, her design ambitions grew and led her to make a short high-waisted Lurex Spencer (close-fitting jacket), and a catsuit in black velvet. When constructing a piece, Anne says it’s hard to define how long it will take but she gives herself a seven-week design period in which she has to design approximately 70 styles. “Every detail with each piece must be done in that period. Some styles come easy, some take a bit longer, [so it] all depends on the design and fabric of course. The texture and beauty of the fabric, the size of the ruffle, and the shape of the button help her to make a quality article of clothing. “Many items from Custommade have survived many years in my wardrobe because of the extra nice quality and delicate details.” Whilst she won’t reveal the other fashion designers she is inspired by, Anne did tell us who her favourite models are. “I am an old lady in mind,” she revealed smiling. “Amber Valletta and Christy Turlington are from my ‘90s decade. They are strong independent women with a soft attitude. In the younger category, Dutch model Birgit Kos is one of my favourites too. Her eyes are amazing. I have something with eyes. Eyes are extremely important when picking my darlings.”