The Bite Magazine - Spring 2019 - Issue 24

bite catwalk W ith the honour of closing London FashionWeek ON/OFF Presents… returned once again with a delightful batch of designers. Established in 2002 ON/OFF are veterans when it comes to showing at London Fashion Week, a highly anticipated show for their diverse selection of talent, many of whom have gone on to become some of British Fashion’s most celebrated designers.This year did not disappoint with their selection of five very exciting, up-and-coming brands. Colin Horgan Spurred on by a fascination with ‘DangerousWomen’, Colin Horgan explored high quality tailoring in his unique SS19 collection. With a ‘90s futuristic vibe that felt reminiscent of the Matrix and 5th Element, it was a collection that felt fresh and strong in the current market of old school references.The choice of tonal colour looks and reflective materials left a lasting impression.The designs were impactful, with black floor length PVC and silk coats and a state- ment piece that consisted of an outstanding orange crop top, flared trouser and a floor-sweeping coat, all in the same fabric, closed the show in a memorable way with the coat billowing as the model moved with such character. Piping details were a key feature throughout the collection. A number of structural 3D body pieces were constructed out of straps of purple, blue and pink orange reflective fabrics showcasing Colin Horgan’s talent with pattern making, while a short cream suit jacket dress had 3D boxy additions on the sleeves. The models had slicked back hair and statement sunglasses adding more attitude and depth to a strong collection. Other statement details such as straps and belted accessories added power to the futuristic collection. As a nod to labelling, Colin Horgan made sure his name was as much an impor- tant part of the collection, appearing on the straps of outfits in bold blocky white letters, providing a really nice touch of personality to the collection. Daniel Pascal Tanner An extremely talented designer coming off the back of a successful collaboration with Liberty Fabric, Daniel Pascal Tanner debuted his first womens- wear collection as part of ON/OFF. With a style he describes as ‘Neo-Romantic’ Daniel presented a beautiful collection of busy floral prints and layers of techniques. Utilising classic silhouettes, cinched in waists, volume hips, knee length dresses and skirts, he added a playful twist with slight exaggerations. Exciting meshes of busy colours were explored in each outfit, with different fabrics coming together to create dizzying layers of pleated fabric, overlapping and peeping through the jagged cut of the layers. Fun arm sleeves matched the colour and print palette of each look. Flowing fabrics were combined with more structured pieces, with one outfit, which resembled Victorian undergarments, equipped with billowing pantaloons and a corset-like stay emphasising the small of the waist. Daniel mentioned his enjoyment of ‘colours exploring the boundaries of taste and the sensibilities of chic’ referencing historical fashion and creating a contrast of classic and modern. LongshawWard Contemporary fashion brand Longshaw Ward is the creation of husband and wife duo Kirsty Ward and David Longshaw. A strong feminine aesthetic is explored through bright colours intertwining with pastel elements. Signature piping was maintained throughout the collection creating a 3D look to the delicate dresses. Sheer fabric overplayed each other, adding depth and dimension and different qualities of fabrics were put together creating a successful contrast such as a shiny black PVC material com- bined with a sheer mesh and colourful embroidery. The brand defines their DNA as a ‘concentration on beautiful, detailed craftsmanship, for modern intel- ligent women.’ IA London Providing a unique experience, completely different from its companions on the catwalk, IA London featured garments that are more akin to artwork than something wearable. Big, flat, oversized garment shaped pieces featured ghostly images, faces and roses smudged together in black and white with hints of red and blue. The imagery felt somewhat haunting, dark and mysterious. The men and wom- enswear brand refers to two key concepts that make the brand: The Art of Fashion and Personalisation. A unique visual identity integrates fashion with art utilising technology to develop the collection. The designer, Ira Avezov, refers to the process as the image comes first and garments are digitally designed to accommodate the artwork, creating pieces that work like a canvas personalised for the image, com- pletely transforming the process of design. A unique experience that left a sense of curiosity for more! Chocolab Chocolab defines its aesthetic ‘as romanticism in an experimental way’ exploring and interpreting new meanings of fashion and culture.Through their show and ON/OFF Presents…, the brand inter- preted its own version of street-style keeping in line with the brand’s aesthetics. Combining tradi- tional fashion styles such as wool scarves, berets and tailored jackets of a dandy, preppy style with on trend statement streetwear staples, hardware accessories provided a refreshing edge to the chic elements. Black puffer jackets, sexy bodysuits and mesh shirts provided a strong contrast and identity that felt adaptable to both men and women styles. www.onoff.tv Chocolab