The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2026 - Issue 39

bitedesignerprofile ally, Costelloe captured its mood as a blend of romance, optimism and cinematic escapism, and filtered it through his disciplined, contemporary lens. Swing dresses in coral, sculptural trapeze coats with exaggerated collars, modern cut‑out gowns and sharply tailored separates showcased his enduring command of construction. The colour palette amplified the sense of summer freedom, with sherbet pinks, warm oranges, and powdery blues softened by luminous silks and crisp linens. At the same time, textured tweeds grounded the collection with moments of sophistication and control. The collaboration with Ivy J Studio Jewellery added a modern edge, with translucent crimson and metallic architectural pieces enhancing the cinematic quality of the looks. Ultimately, ‘Boulevard of Dreams’ succeeded because it approached nostalgia with emotional clarity rather than cliché, celebrating the freedom and femininity of the late Sixties while reimagining them for the modern woman. Romantic, polished and confident, it stood as one of the season’s most sincere and refined expressions of timeless glamour. Paul Costelloe’s passing in November 2025 may have marked the end of his era, but the pioneer’s legacy is woven into the fabric of British and Irish fashion. It lives in the designers he inspired, the women he dressed, and the collections that shaped decades of style. The AW26 tribute collection carried the emotional weight and clarity of a brand honouring its founder while confidently step- ping into its next chapter. Designed by his son, William Costelloe, it embraced the unmistakable imprint of Paul Costelloe’s earliest London seasons. The opening look, a tweed jacket Paul had personally se- lected before he died, set the tone as a gesture of continui- ty, and a reminder that the house’s foundations were built on precision, heritage and a deep respect for craft. From there, the collection expanded into a series of silhouettes that echoed the 1980s strength that first defined Paul’s rise. Broad shoulders, clean double‑breasted jackets and sculptural tailoring reappeared with renewed purpose, not as retro references but as the architectural grammar of the brand’s DNA. William’s approach was reverent yet forward‑looking. Magee tweed, a fabric Paul championed throughout his career, became the anchor of the collection, shaped into coats and jackets that carried weight and movement. The tailoring was crisp, confident and unmistakably Costelloe, but the proportions felt subtly updated. Alongside the tailoring came the collection’s most poetic gesture: sweep- ing ballgowns printed with Paul’s own illustrations. These pieces felt like a conversation across generations with William’s silhouettes carrying Paul’s hand‑drawn lines, merging father and son into a single creative expression. While we mourn the loss of a legend, we look forward to witnessing more of Paul Costelloe’s spirit in future collec- tions through his successor, William. www.paulcostelloe.com LFW SS24