The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2025 - Issue 38

bitecatwalk F or his AW25 collection, Paul Costelloe brought the polished discipline of equestrian life to London Fashion Week, deliver- ing a show that was as grounded in heritage as it was fresh in silhouette. Set against the stately backdrop of the Waldorf Hilton, the runway transformed into a celebration of tradition, refinement, and the enduring elegance of British tailoring. Now marking his 40th year on the London Fashion Week calendar, Costelloe continues to prove that legacy doesn't mean predictability. This season, he leaned into equestrian themes with a renewed sense of dynamism, paying homage to the poise, power, and precision of the riding world while updating it for a modern woman on the move. From the opening look, the structured yet spirited tone was clear. Tailored wool coats nipped at the waist were paired with voluminous culottes and jodhpur-style trousers, echoing riding attire without slipping into costume. The play of proportion was a standout across the collection, with sharply tailored jackets offset by flared skirts or full-length pants, which gave a sense of strength without sacrificing femininity. The colour palette was deeply autumnal with warm chestnuts, oxblood reds, forest greens, and inky blacks interspersed with creamy ivories and the occasional check or floral burst. It was a moody, earthy col- lection that suited the season, invoking crisp air and countryside rides without losing its city edge. Fabrics told their own story of craftsmanship and authenticity. Wools and tweeds, sourced from trusted mills in Ireland and Scotland, added texture and weight to the garments. There was a tactile richness in every piece infused with fabrics that looked as luxurious as they felt, grounding the collection in a tactile sense of place and tradition. Accessories played a subtle but effective role in underlining the theme. Riding boots, sculpted leather belts, and softly structured caps added detail without overwhelming. Even the hair and make-up leaned into a clean, windswept look with flushed cheeks and slicked-back hair, as if the models had just returned from a brisk ride through the country- side. Still, it didn't feel like a walk down memory lane. Mixed in with the classic tailoring were dresses that played with shape, and full skirts, tight bodices, silhouettes that hinted at different times without being stuck in any of them. Costelloe has a way of holding strength and softness in the same frame, and he pulled it off here. The whole show moved with purpose as one breathing entity. The pacing, styling, and catwalking felt more like a film unfolding than a typical runway show. Each look flowed into the next with clarity and purpose, reflecting a designer who knows how to construct a garment and tell a story, touching the audience's hearts. As he celebrated his four-decade milestone on the London Fashion Week stage, Paul Costelloe reaffirmed his place as a mainstay in British fashion. His AW25 collection didn't reinvent the wheel, nor did it try to. Instead, it honed in on what he does best: crafting wearable elegance infused with narrative, precision, and pride. The result was a show that felt classic and contemporary with a timeless ride through Costelloe's signature world. https://www.paulcostelloe.com PAUL COSTELLOE FASHION WEEK LONDON Autumn/Winter 2025