The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2025 - Issue 38

Topshop and Topman celebrated their rebirth with a catwalk show in Trafalgar Square in August. Jada Brookes looks at the collection and its return to physical retail at Liberty. bitefashion R ebirth Photography by Tony Wellington I n fashion, a ‘phoenix’ symbolises rebirth, re- silience, and transformation, drawing on the mythical bird’s ability to rise from the ashes. Designers use the phoenix motif to inspire new beginnings, overcoming adversity, and gaining new- found strength. This August, Topshop and Topman ascended from the cinders with a highly anticipated runway show for the first time in seven years in cen- tral London to celebrate the relaunch of their website and debut their AW25 collection. The once crown jewel of high street fashion began life in 1964 as a youth-focused section within the Peter Robinson department store on Oxford Street. By 1973, it had broken away to become a standalone brand, targeting young women with affordable, trend-led fashion, providing identity, aspiration, and accessibility. Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Top- shop grew steadily, but it was the 1990s and early 2000s that cemented its status as a cultural force. Under the ownership of Arcadia Group, led by Sir Philip Green, Topshop expanded aggressively, open- ing flagship stores and becoming synonymous with fast fashion that didn’t compromise on style. By the mid-2000s, Topshop was also a fashion institution; its Oxford Circus flagship became a pilgrimage site for fashion lovers, boasting five floors of clothing, acces- sories, and even a hair salon. Their appeal lay in its ability to translate runway trends into wearable, af- fordable pieces almost overnight. The store’s cultural moments included a collaboration with supermodel Kate Moss, whose capsule collec- tions were a media frenzy, often selling out within hours. They were the first high street brand to show on the official LFW schedule, backing emerging de- signers like Christopher Kane and JW Anderson. Everyone from Beyoncé to Alexa Chung wore Top- shop, further elevating its cool-girl cache, with signa- ture pieces including Joni jeans, bodycon dresses, and statement outerwear. Despite its dominance, cracks began to show in the 2010s. The rise of online-only retailers like ASOS and Boohoo, coupled with changing consumer habits and growing concerns about fast fashion’s environmen- tal impact, began to erode Topshop’s relevance. The COVID-19 pandemic also accelerated the decline of brick-and-mortar retail. Arcadia Group, already struggling with debt and outdated infrastructure, col- lapsed into administration in November 2020, result- ing in store closures.