The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2025 - Issue 37

bitecatwalk YUHAN WANG FASHION WEEK LONDON Spring/Summer 2025 Y uhan Wang presented one of the most nuanced and emotionally intelligent shows of the season titled ‘The Rose Fist’. This collection artfully balanced strength and fragility, drawing on historical references infused with feminist undertones, all wrapped in the designer’s signature romanticism. It was inspired by groundbreaking female boxers such as Laila Ali, Barbara Buttrick, Bridgett Riley, and Jane Couch, who created space for themselves in male-dominated sports. Wang’s brilliance lies in her ability to reinterpret their strength through a soft-focus lens, crafting silhouettes that hon- our their resilience with a gentle, poetic touch. Often viewed as masculine, athletic wear was transformed through her unmistakably feminine aesthetic. Biker shorts and tank tops were paired with layered skirts made of silk tulle and Chantilly lace. Voluminous shoulder pads, reminiscent of protective boxing gear, were softened with ruching, delicate ribbons, and 3D floral motifs. Athletic leotards shimmered with embroidered blooms and sheer overlays, blurring the line between the gym attire and garden elegance. The footwear mirrored this subversion; dainty Victorian-style court shoes were reimagined with chunky soles and mesh inserts, ready for action. Wang also utilised repurposed off-cuts and deadstock fabrics to create dreamy yet purpose- ful garments, including fitted bodices, ruched mini skirts, and restructured boxer shorts, all designed with a boxer’s stance in mind. A standout reference was the Fighting Cholitas of Bolivia; these female wrestlers are known for their performative defiance and extravagant attire. Wang’s interpretation featured low-slung voluminous skirts and exaggerated panniers made from lace and nylon, blending folkloric tra- ditions with a modern edge. Even the accessories conveyed a narrative, as custom boxing gloves crafted from but- ter-soft leather and silk resembled heirlooms rather than athletic equipment, symbolising elegance in resistance. Waist-cinching corsets trimmed with lace and hand-paint- ed detailing hinted at themes of restriction and strength, a recurring tension in Wang’s work. Throughout the show, it became clear that Wang was shaping a new image of womanhood that embraces tenderness and strength. She provided duality without compromise; every look was intentional, from the softest tulle to the toughest leather, with every stitch pulsating purposefully. As the models floated down the runway, one could almost hear the echo of Siegfried Sassoon’s quote, which Wang chose to open the show: “In me, the tiger sniffs the rose.” With this collection, Yuhan Wang demonstrated that elegance and ferocity are not opposites but partners in power.

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