The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2025 - Issue 37

F or summer, Japanese fashion designer Chitose Abe reminds us why Sacai is one of the most distinctive voices in contemporary fashion. With her mastery of hybrid construction and bold exper- imentation, she creates collections that turn everyday clothing into something unexpect- edly thoughtful through layered compositions of form and fabric. Established in Tokyo in 1999, the brand is known for its unique, timeless, innovative, and experimental clothing. Influ- enced by her surroundings and daily life, Abe delivers a distinctive elegance by transforming basic and classic items. Sacai launched its men’s collection in spring 2009, following the same philosophy and approach as its women’s line. This collection showcased crafted staple items for men imbued with a touch of elegance. Since October 2009, the women’s collection has been showcased in Paris during FashionWeek, and today, both col- lections are presented in the French capital.The brand opened its first flagship store in Septem- ber 2011 in Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo, designed by architect Sou Fujimoto. His work integrates contrasting elements such as nature and arte- facts, indoors and outdoors, as well as old and new. This season’s collection began with what could be described as basics: a navy jacket, a pleated skirt, and a crisp white blouse. However, in typical Sacai fashion, nothing was as it seemed. Panels transformed into pleats mid-torso, coats flared like parachutes at the back, and sleeves were split, reshaped, and suspended. Each piece took on new forms in motion, creating an architectural experience around the body. Abe’s talent lies in layering not just garments but also meaning. She draws inspiration from ordinary items, such as a trench, a t-shirt, and a school uniform and deconstructs them to create entirely new sil- houettes. The tailoring in this collection was cleaner than in previous ones, yet still complex. At every turn, she balanced construction with wearability and discipline with a touch of soft- ness. Colour played a supporting role, using ink black, khaki, sand, and powder blue as a grounded base, while bursts of crimson and chartreuse emerged in accent layers and under- garment-like pieces peeking from within the garments. Texture was a central theme this season, leading the conversation. Denim clashed play- fully with nylon, cotton twill met technical mesh, and shirting fabric floated over lace and tulle.While these pairings might seem incom- patible, they moved with complete conviction on the runway. One of the most striking looks reimagined the blazer as a wraparound harness, cinched over a raw-edged blouse and sharply cut shorts. It navigated gender, form, and function—territory that Sacai handles with instinctive ease. Additionally, utility vests were fused into dresses, transforming practical gear into striking visual architecture. Abe’s work often embodies a tension between restraint and release. Hemlines unravel into the fringe, buttons stop halfway down the placket, and collars float away from necklines. These design choices are not mistakes but rather invitations to look closely. Each interruption functions as a small rebellion against catego- risation and predictability. The collection was quieter and more deliberate. Even the casting reflected a mix of ages, genders, and body types, walking without theatrics, allowing the clothes to speak for themselves.The message conveyed that this is not fantasy fashion; it’s clothing designed for real life, elevated by curiosity and a deep respect for craftsmanship. By the show’s end, Abe remained true to her vision of transformation driven by intention. Rather than a spectacle, it was a thoughtful design in which unexpected elements came together to create something new and wear- able. Sacai’s SS25 collection did not reinvent the brand but refined and clarified its essence, reminding us that innovation can feel oddly familiar when executed well. https://www.sacai.jp bitefashion Giedre Jackyte discusses the structure of the Japanese fashion brand Sacai’s SS25 collection, which exemplifies hybrid construction and fearless experimentation.