The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2025 - Issue 37

Images courtesy of V&A Museum biteexhibition ploration of the Maison’s journey. It brings together an ex- ceptional collection of over 350 pieces reflecting the brand’s innovation, artistry, and historical significance. Featuring jewellery, watches, accessories, sketches, and archival mate- rials from the V&A and Cartier Collection, the exhibition unveils the stories behind Cartier’s creations, offering insight into the brand’s evolution and the people who shaped it. Highlights include the Williamson Diamond brooch com- missioned by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 featuring the rare 23.6-carat pink Williamson diamond. The Scroll Tiara was commissioned for the Countess of Essex in 1902, worn by Clementine Churchill to Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953, and by Rihanna on the cover of WMagazine in 2016. A 1938 rose clip brooch worn by Princess Margaret at her sis- ter’s coronation, and an amethyst and sapphire brooch made by Cartier London for Jacques Cartier’s wife, Nelly. Grace Kelly’s engagement ring from the Monaco Princely Pal- ace Collection, which she wore in her final film, High Socie- ty, in 1956. Mexican film star María Félix’s exceptional 1968 snake necklace, the majestic Manchester Tiara from the V&A collection, made in 1903 for the Dowager Duchess of Man- chester, and a collection of panther jewels, one of the houses’ most enduring and instantly recognisable symbols, including a bracelet of pavé diamonds flecked with onyx in 1978. Among the standouts are stunning examples of Cartier’s use of platinum, a metal that revolutionised jewellery-making by allowing for intricate, lace-like designs that were previously unattainable. The Patiala Necklace, commissioned by the Ma- haraja of Patiala in 1928, is set in platinum with diamonds, yellow and white zirconia, topaz, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz, and citrine. A diamond and platinum brooch from 1910, exhibiting Art Deco influences, is also on display, show- casing the houses’ evolving style. Visitors will be captivated by the display of Cartier’s signature Tutti Frutti pieces, dazzling compositions of carved emer- alds, sapphires, and rubies, often set against delicate platinum frameworks. Originating in the 1920s, these vibrant crea- tions drew inspiration from Indian royalty and demonstrat- ed Cartier’s ability to seamlessly blend Eastern and Western aesthetics. One example is the Mountbatten Bandeau in em- eralds, rubies, sapphires, diamonds and platinum made for Lady Mountbatten in 1928. Cartier’s influence extends beyond haute joaillerie, and the exhibition dedicates significant space to its revolutionary contributions to horology. One of the most celebrated piec- es in the brand’s history, the Santos de Cartier takes centre stage. The watch was designed in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont and was one of the earliest wristwatches ever created. It departed from the traditional pocket watch and be- came a game-changer in timepieces. Equally impressive is the Tank Watch, introduced in 1917 and inspired by the geometric lines of military tanks seen during World War I. Over the years, the Tank Watch has adorned the wrists of style icons such as Jackie Kennedy, Princess Diana, and Andy Warhol, reinforcing its status as a timeless state- ment of elegance. The exhibition also sheds light on Cartier’s Mystery Clocks, extraordinary creations in which the clock hands appear to float without any visible mechanism. Cartier’s creations have graced the silver screen and adorned the world’s most celebrated figures. The exhibition explores the Maison’s relationship with Hollywood, displaying piec- es worn by stars such as Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, and Audrey Hepburn. The house’s presence in film and fashion is woven into the exhibition’s narrative, from grand necklaces featured in films to bespoke designs commissioned for pre- mieres. The brand’s collaborations with couturiers also come into focus, showcasing how the Maison has complemented the most exquisite gown with its jewellery. From royal corona- tions to Met Gala red carpets, Cartier jewels have long been the ultimate accessory for those who wish to make a state- ment. American actress Gloria Swanson wore Cartier dia- mond bracelets in classic films like Sunset Boulevard, and Zoe Saldaña dazzled at the 2025 Golden Globes with a range of Cartier high jewellery pieces. A highlight of the exhibition is its insight into Cartier’s me- ticulous design and craftsmanship processes. Visitors can ex- plore original sketches, witness the evolution of design ideas, and even engage with interactive installations that showcase the craftsmanship behind Cartier’s high jewellery collections. Rare footage and photographs capture the artisans in the brand’s ateliers, revealing the precision required to set dia- monds, engrave metal, and assemble watches. The Cartier exhibition at the V&A, running until 16 Novem- ber 2025, showcases dazzling jewels and Maison’s ability to shape culture, redefine luxury, and inspire generations of de- signers, collectors, and dreamers. Each piece tells a story of artistry, ambition, and elegance transcending time. For fash- ion, history, and craftsmanship enthusiasts, the exhibition provides an unparalleled opportunity to engage with Cartier’s legacy in an educational and visually breathtaking way. www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/cartier