The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2024 - Issue 36

bitefashion Images courtesy of Shiaparelli T he anticipation was palpable as the crowd gathered outside Schiaparelli’s Place Vendôme venue, demonstrating the brand's magnetic allure. Inside, creative director Daniel Roseberry's collection, aptly titled ‘Esprit de Schiap’ offered a fresh perspective on the intersection of haute couture and everyday wear. Rose- berry, known for his innovative takes on the legendary house's aesthetic, sought to create a collection that transcends mere celebrity appeal, focusing instead on legitimising Schiaparelli’s role in everyday fashion. His vision for this season integrates the brand’s haute couture spirit with practi- cal, wearable pieces. This approach aims to shift perceptions, so Schiaparelli is not only associated with glamorous red carpets but also with sophisticated, ac- cessible fashion. The collection featured a notable departure from previous sea- sons' extravagance, embracing a more relaxed and approachable luxury. The show opened with Danish model Mona Tougaard in a mannish tweed suit, sans shirt or bra, showcasing a new, relaxed approach to tailoring. Creative pairings such as a corset with ultra- oversized pants fastened with a bandana followed. Roseberry drew inspiration from the desires of women in his life, resulting in statement outerwear like a navy peacoat with branded buttons and a puffer jacket designed to mimic six-pack abs, complete with brass nipple buttons. The collection also featured stretch jersey dresses with trompe l’oeil leotards, nodding to Geoffrey Beene, and beaded evening gowns that emphasised the brand's signature sense of humour and creativity. Accessories played a pivotal role, with high-top sneakers sporting moulded toes and heels shaped like S’s adorned with rhinestones. These elements underscored Roseberry's goal of blending the extraordinary with the everyday. ‘Esprit de Schiap’ celebrates Schiaparel- li’s iconic motifs. The measuring tape, a symbol of precision, adorned various garments, while the Keyhole motif ap- peared as clasps, zippers, and earrings. These details, anatomical references, and American Western influences infused the collection with a unique, playful sophistication. It champions individuality, offering di- verse silhouettes from tailored blazers to draped dresses. The emphasis is on pro- viding tools for self-expression rather than dictating trends. Accessories like bijoux bags and cowboy boots featuring anatomical details further enhanced the collection’s surreal yet refined aesthetic. Essential collection looks include a single-breasted suit with measuring tape embroidery and cowboy boots with moulded ears, a denim jacket paired with a stockman-inspired pencil skirt featuring a mouth-shaped zipper pull, and a gold bodycon dress with bijoux straps. Each piece reflects the commit- ment to creativity and craftsmanship. Schiaparelli exemplifies the brand’s legacy of blending surrealism with practicality. It invites individuals to em- brace their unique style while making a memorable impact, both on the runway and in their everyday lives. https://www.schiaparelli.com/en Esprit de Schiap MIA ZHANG DESCRIBES THE ATMOSPHERE AS SCHIAPARELLI CREATIVE DIRECTOR DANIEL ROSEBERRY SHOWEDTHEIR ESPRIT DE SCHIAP COLLECTIONAT THE PLACEVENDÔMEVENUE.