The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2024 - Issue 35

DURAN LANTINK Mia Zhang admires Dutch designer Duran Lantink’s Spring- Summer 2024 collection. bitefashion Designer Profile A name synonymous with sustainability in the fashion world, Duran Lantink contin- ues to captivate audiences with his innova- tive approach to design. In July, he was awarded the prestigious ANDAM Special Prize for his commit- ment to sustainability, a core pillar of his eponymous label. However, during his debut at the official Paris Fashion Week, the designer took a bold step away from the expected narratives of repurposed materi- als to deliver a more significant, profound statement. Backstage before the show, Lantink articulated his current creative exploration, emphasising a shift to- wards form rather than the fusion of garments and materials that characterised his earlier collections. This season marked his first foray into the seasonal aspect of fashion, and he did so with aplomb, intro- ducing mod floral prints crafted from repurposed plastic bottles alongside a thematic nod to water, in- cluding playful lifesavers. True to his avant-garde aesthetic, the designer show- cased pneumatic silhouettes that ranged from volup- tuous, artificially inflated sheath dresses to ethereal floating necklines and petite ‘bubble jeans’. Each piece was a testament to his unbridled imagination and keen eye for unconventional beauty. Notable highlights included a forest green bomber jacket cleverly incorporating a lifejacket and a whimsical dress from a whale's tail. The designer's ingenuity was further showcased through his inventive hybrids, such as a sundress crafted from a 19th-century silk veil paired with a traditional Dutch bonnet, a cage dress constructed from a sliced black t-shirt, knit deadstock, and a skirt worn over a white bubble top. His exploration of three-dimensionality was evident throughout the collection, offering a refreshing take on traditional garment construction. One of the collection's standout pieces was the ‘Speedo-jeans’, a daring fusion of classic men's swim briefs with vintage denim and hand-knitted leg warmers. This juxtaposition of disparate elements underscored Lantink’s commitment to pushing boundaries and challenging conventional norms. Despite the whimsicality of his designs, the design- er’s primary focus remains a critical examination of our relationship with traditional clothing. The show's culmination featured a striking black hour- glass cutout dress with hook-like shoulders, serving as a poignant reminder of the transformative power of fashion. Notably, his dedication to sustainability was evident throughout the collection, with 95% of materials sourced from deadstock. Even the few new materi- als employed were meticulously hand-knitted from wool or thoughtfully recycled, underscoring his commitment to minimising environmental impact. Looking ahead, Lantink has ambitious plans to bring some of the more practical pieces from this collec- tion into production, ensuring that his standout looks will soon become accessible to fashion enthu- siasts worldwide. However, the absence of last looks left the audience yearning for one final dip into his whimsical and imaginative world, a testament to the lasting impact of his SS24 collection. In conclusion, Duran Lantink's SS24 collection is a playful symphony of proportions, blending avant-garde aesthetics with sustainable practices to deliver a thought-provoking and visually stunning contemporary fashion showcase. As Lantink con- tinues pushing boundaries and challenging con- ventions, his work is a beacon of inspiration for the industry. www.duranlantink.com/ss24 A Playful Symphony of Proportions