The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2023 - Issue 34

Jada Brookes explores Chinese restaurant Yauatcha’s culinary history, traditions and folklore and its delicious patisserie blend of Eastern and Western influences. Y auatcha bitedesserts Y auatcha derives from the Chinese word, ‘Yum Cha’, meaning tea and Dim sum house or Yau at cha. It is this name Hong Kong-born British restaurateur Alan Yau used for the Soho Chinese restaurant he created in 2004, a modern incarnation of the traditional Chinese teahouse and a social space to connect people with the environment and experiences. Yau is also responsible for bringing the Japanese Wagamama, Thai Busaba Eathai and the more expensive Hakkasan restaurants to the masses in London. Yauatcha provides a unique dining experience, offering all-day authentic dim sum dishes with a contemporary in- fluence. Its cuisine is based on Chinese cooking, one of the oldest and most diverse in the world. Like the ancient Silk Road, which began in north-central China in Xi’an (mod- ern Shaanxi province), the 23 Chinese provinces have their unique cooking styles - from the fiery heat of the Sichuan, Hunan and Jiangxi provinces to the mutton and lamb dishes in Beijing. However, the cuisine in the Guangdong (or Canton) prov- ince is the most varied. The Cantonese are renowned for their extensive food choices, including offal, chicken feet, snakes and snails. A more unique delicacy is dim sum, which has grown increasingly popular in the Western world and is inextricably linked with yum cha, or the act of drinking tea. Merchants travelling along the Silk Road through Chi- na needed a place of rest before continuing their journey, so several teahouses opened up along the roadside. When tea was discovered to aid digestion, teahouse owners began offering bite-sized snacks as an accompaniment. In China, dim sum means 'touch the heart', so the small por- tions were initially designed to touch the heart, not merely sate the appetite. As yum cha evolved, it became a vital part of Chinese culture, with some restaurants in southern China, specifically Hong Kong, serving dim sum as early as five in the morning. In London, it's served throughout the day and evening. Another tradition is Chinese New Year, celebrated annually. This year, the Year of the Rabbit began on Sunday, 22 January 2023, with the first full moon following the winter solstice and ending on Saturday, 9 February 2024. In the Chinese zodiac, the rabbit is considered the luckiest mammal, sym- bolising mercy, elegance and beauty. People born in the Year of the Rabbit are believed to be calm, peaceful, artistic, intel- ligent, complete everything to the best of their abilities, and avoid fights and confrontations. The rabbit is a significant cultural symbol in China, associ- ated with prevalent and widely loved folktales. It also plays a prominent role in other stories, including the Moon Goddess and the Mid-Autumn Festival. In ancient times, the Chinese believed a rabbit, known as the Jade or Moon Rabbit, lived on the moon. It was the closest companion to the immortal Moon Goddess and would sit with her, making medicine by grinding herbs with a mortar and pestle. One story recalls the Jade Emperor disguising himself as a poor, starving older man, begging for food from a monkey, otter, jackal and rabbit. The monkey gathered fruit from the trees, while the otter gathered fish from the river. The jackal stole a lizard and a pot of milk curds, but the rabbit gathered grass. Instead of offering food, he decided to give his body as a sacrifice and throw himself into the fire the man had start- ed. Thankfully, he wasn’t harmed. The older man revealed his identity and was so touched by the rabbit's selflessness that he sent it to the moon to become the immortal Jade Rabbit. According to Beijing folklore, the Jade Rabbit came to Earth as a girl riding a horse, a tiger, or a lion, travelling through the city and saving many from a severe and dangerous epi- demic. Thus, Beijingers made statuettes of a rabbit wearing armour and riding a tiger in tribute. White rabbits represent the symbol of longevity in traditional Chinese culture. The ancient Chinese believed the white rabbit was an incarnation of Alioth, the brightest star of the Triones. Eastern West Delights