The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2022 - Issue 32

bitecatwalk F ounded in 2015, modern-day menswear brand Labrum London debuted their AW22 collection at London Fashion Week. Its name is taken from the Latin word for ‘having an edge’, which sits at the heart of the brand’s mission to make “honest, practical clothing rooted in simplicity, fit and a passion for detail.” They en- deavour to tell untold stories of West Africa to help bridge the gap betweenWestern andWest African cultures. The brand is centred on creating directional menswear with a drive to develop clean, sophisticated and unique looks that are wearable yet distinctive and inspired by a lifetime of travel, exploration and pilgrimage. Their latest collection, ‘Poetics of Movement’, looked at the essence of human survival and the beauty of migration as a way to erase all negative connotations of the word ‘immigrant’. With a choir singing and spoken word, the collection’s fabrics, craft- ed by artisans in Sierra Leone, punctuated the show in brilliant or- anges, ocean greens and vibrant yellows.The Mende and Kissi tribes’ hand-drawn and hand-embroidered Nomoli figurine screen prints were captured on some of the Aishatu dresses and denim jackets. These stone-carved figurines are often kept around or inside the home for protection or good fortune. Whilst it is a menswear brand, female models also walked the col- lection dressed in suits or apparel with Nomoli figurines. Labrum teamed with luxury leather goods brand Nosakhari to create three bag shapes for AW22: a heavy-duty tote, a hybrid and a folio made from deadstock and leather off-cuts as a reliable solution to reduce waste.The crossbody and folio appeared in two distinct styles, a so- phisticated camp print and a repurposed patchwork with minimalist brass hardware. One standout piece that grabbed my attention was an orange jacket with handprinted flowers diagonally across one side.The collection was crafted well, from the winter jackets to the suits. Intricate details were on the pockets, across the lapels, different colour tones to the rest of the garment and a harness across the shirt and long jacket. I liked the enormous cosy greyish coat that looked snug and warm for this season. https://labrumlondon.com LABRUM LONDON