The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2022 - Issue 32

CC Mason reviewed Paco Rabanne’s AW22 catwalk show at Paris Fashion Week. bitefashion o Images courtesy of AI PR T hirty-three luscious looks graced Paco Rabanne’s Fall-Winter 2022 collection in the Palais de Tokyo building in Paris. Creative director Julien Dossena presented exaggerated silhouettes of cuffs and collars reminiscent of the Victorian era, cloaked in dainty floral prints and patterns, alongside nods to the raw, sultry 1990s with lithe metallics. Waistlines For All Occasions Fashion has always pushed the limits on what is a ‘wearable’ waistline on garments. When they were low, they were perilous- ly low, a la McQueen’s ‘bumsters’ that thoroughly put the top of the buttocks on display. They were unbearably high when they were high, like the ribcage hugging pairs from Isabel Marant’s Fall 2015 collection. Despite this precedent, Dossena compiled a collection embracing all types of waistlines, ensuring a piece for everybody. The opening look, and several others that followed, displayed a classic empire waist, falling just below the bust, al- lowing the dresses to flow freely into copious gathered ruffles. Others offered a corset-like image with a diamond-shaped inset on the midriff or presented a dropped torso in addition to many more modern waistlines. Gentle Colours Dossena wanted to evoke feminine power with these pieces, al- legedly creating the collection with the world’s past and future heroines in mind, and he more than accomplished that. Impas- sioned metallics in silver and gold were blended with amiable pale blues and sweet-tempered pinks and creams. The supple velvets, eyelash knits and speckled prints helped to soften the black and grey hues into the palette. These colours were picked up in the tasteful floral pattern of the second look. Even those that didn’t sport metallic fabrics were celebrated in bright silver, so no single piece was without the sparkle. Ruffled and Ready If one picked a singular word to describe this collection, it would be ‘ruffles’. These ruffles cascaded down the runway, on the hem of dresses and cuffs, comprising full skirts and sleeves - there was no place left unruffled. These adornment types can some- times be a controversial choice; the runways of the 1980s had more ruffles than a 16th-century ball dress, leading many to consider it ‘overdone.’ Dossena, however, took a chance with this Paco Rabanne collection, and it paid off. Ironically, the ruffle were reinvented into something new for many of these looks by pairing it with significantly more classically inspired silhouettes. Lace is For Lovers The intricate, unparalleled lacework on these looks cannot be ignored. It was first seen in small quantities in the large collars early in the show; the lacework was magnificently displayed with a cream-coloured knit mini dress, being one of the runway standouts. It mixed two patterns: one larger floral-inspired cro- cheted motif adorned the ends of the long knit sleeves and the first layer at the bottom of the dress and a smaller, more intricate lace pattern that can be worn as a cropped, short-sleeved jacket over the clothing. The smaller pattern could also be seen poking out of the bottom of the dress under the more significant lace overlay. The next look, a cropped, cream-coloured knit sweater, took the concept one step further, adding a crocheted peplum in the same motif, with the lace-edged collared shirts from the first several looks underneath. Fun, Flirty, and Fabulous This collection has many standout pieces, but a few deserve special recognition. The first was the floral dress with long bell sleeves. Something about this dress was enchanting, like a walk through a medieval flower field sprinkled with a little bit of mag- ic. It was a reimagined fairytale moment. The dropped waist, tan eyelash knit dress with a coordinating cardigan was the next eye-catcher, but not for the same reason as the rest of the glitzy collection. Sure, it had layers of metallic ruffles, but it was easily the most runway-to-street style piece of the show. Don’t be surprised if you see your favourite social media per- sonalities wearing this outfit, with this same styling, as soon as it hits the stores. Finally, the silver babydoll dress that closed out the show encapsulated all of the notions of the collection. It was a fantastic take on the classic babydoll, a cut that most people associate with lingerie. It added flirtatiousness to the already coy silhouette. The pleats and ruffles added volumes, literally and metaphorically, to the movement of the garment. Julien Dossena masterfully created a collection for Paco Ra- banne that was crafted solely for the female gaze. With influenc- es spanning centuries, the pieces created a story of bold women, both past and present, that inspired and became the ultimate Paco Rabanne clientele. https://www.pacorabanne.com