The Bite Magazine - Spring/Summer 2022 - Issue 31

bitefashion I n 2019, Jun Nakamura founded his fashion brand Ju-nna after completing an MA in Fash- ion Design Womenswear at Istituto Marangoni London. Drawing on his past working at his family’s kimono wholesale company and in the ki- mono industry, the designer focuses on incorporat- ing traditional Japanese techniques such as shibori, a term meaning to ‘wring, squeeze and press’, in his collection. This handicraft is often used to make ki- monos, but Jun works with artisans to put a modern twist on the classic conventional art. His graduate ‘SINN 2018 FW’ collection was in- spired by this abstract art, which he used to create shapes. The presentation was described as “the as- sociation of discordant materials and subsequent incorporation of printed fabrics used in a genuinely innovative way [resulting] in a balance yet daring blend of soft, flexible fabrics versus structured mate- rials such as leather on the tailoring structure, with shiny materials and boundary-speaking elements such as lace, feathers, and pleated stripes providing the strategic deconstruction effect.” Shibori is a 1,300-year technique said to originate in China and involves the fabric being bound using a thread by hand to make tiny patterns one by one. Traditionally, artisans would start practicing the technique from childhood and have kept the her- itage going for centuries. However, it is in danger of extinction due to the decreasing demand for ki- monos and the scarcity of younger artisans. Ju-nna aims to keep this practice alive with its collections. Before coming to London, Jun studied fashion de- sign at Osaka Mode Gakuen College of Fashion & Design, where he developed a skill set in drawing, pattern-making and sewing. He then moved to Tokyo and worked with several fashion designers, where he was involved in designing, fabric sourcing and production. He developed a working relation- ship with Indian, Vietnamese, Japanese and Chinese factories and weavers who provided hand-woven antique fabrics and hand embroidery. This experi- ence afforded him hands-on knowledge of hand and machinery manufacturing processes. Today, the designer works exclusively with Japa- nese Shibori companies and the artisans who bind the fabric by hand. He believes this time-consum- ing handiwork creates an authentic beauty and con- tributes to the preservation of the traditional tech- nique. Whilst Shibori is processed widely for tie-dye effects, Ju-anna uses the method on printed fabrics that focus on its 3D structure. This innovative ap- proach gives it a unique appearance and twist from the original and provides a contemporary approach to the traditional methods for new designers to cre- ate designs without losing the essence of the art. Jun focuses on quality over quantity, with each col- lection completed uniquely and authentically, elim- inating the idea of fast fashion. Depending on the fabrics’ thickness and qualities, a suitable Shibori technique is chosen, and then samples are produced by the artisans. This new practice for artisans often takes up to six months to finalise the first sample. The shibori fabric is then draped onto toiles and stitched by hand to create artistic structures. After an ample time from the first process, each collection is completed, showcasing innovative features. In Ju-nna’s latest head-turning collection, white is the dominant colour. Most designs feature beauti- ful pastel patterns ranging from baby blue and pink to turquoise and earthy shades that can be seen in the 3D prints. The designs seem flowy, from the high-waisted trousers to the dresses and skirts. One particular design stands out more than others, an asymmetrical flowy short sleeve dress with a bal- let-like tutu on the right shoulder. In contrast, the left shoulder features a crochet-style guipure. By fo- cusing on the 3D shape, Shibori creates striking aes- thetics achieved by combining patterns and prints. Woven fabrics give a contemporary feel, and their stretchy quality makes the clothes feel very comfort- able no matter the occasion. https://www.ju-nna.com