The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2021 - Issue 30

bitecatwalk R ecently appointed creative director, Nicola Brognano once again invited us into the candy-coloured nos- talgic ‘90s Barbie-like dream world of Blumarine’s latest collection. After receiving little notice for his SS21 debut collection (which was aesthetically similar to the current AW21 collection, only on a much less amped-up sugar rush) this young, yet seasoned designer, whose past links him to Giambattista Valli in Paris, Dolce & Gabbana ‘alta moda’ and the winner of Vogue Italia’s Who Is On Next award in 2016 for his self-named brand Brognano, it goes without saying that he knows how to make a bold statement. Choosing to do a pre-recorded runway show this season complete with Disney Princess birds swooping in for just the right amount of over-the-top cuteness, Brognano worked at upgrading the wow factor that used to be syn - onymous with the Italian brand. “My Blumarine is more dirty, bitchy, sexier,” he said. He’s trying to bring back the wonder years of when Anna Molinari was in charge and the brand was equated to luxury romantic kitsch. Ergo, it’s true, Blumarine has been a bit dry over the last decade or so, having lost its ‘dolce vita’ reputation to the ebb and flow of fickle-fashion time. However, Brognano has taken a firm hold on leading and breathing new life into the label. Gazelle-like models languidly lay about in a coral pink sat - urated round room, methodically primping and admiring themselves in mirrors and via a selfie pose. Glittering jew - el-encrusted accessories and sheer lace mini dresses and skirts coquettishly drape their enviably perfect figures as they then get up and step out to a darkened ‘runway’. Emerging from the darkness comes a line-up fit for any true girlie-girl, and especially one who remembers the late ‘90s/2000s. Inspired by his heroines of the time, Britney Spears and Paris Hilton, one can see the references back to this time of gaudy, tweeny dressing. Low slung hipster flared jeans, midriff and cropped tops, butterfly and flora themed accessories adorning everything, punches of leopard print, micro-mini skirts and dresses, sweet cable knits and fuzzy furs and simple pageboy caps to finish looks like a sweet little cherry on top. My personal favourites from the collection have to be the amazing shoes and accessories! I, like many A-list celebs and influencers, are going nuts over the crisscrossing thigh-high wrapping strapped stilettos, gorgeous butter - fly crystal belt buckles and the fur shoulder stoles in a rainbow of colours. Blumarine may be a bit odd relic of sorts in the world of ‘dressing sexy’ but with Brognano’s help and that of social media frenzy, I’m sure this diehard brand will once again become the flirtatious label we all know and love. https://www.blumarine.com/en/