The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2021 - Issue 30

bitecatwalk T he word ‘chunky’ in its most basic definition has never really been used as a positive term, however, artistic director Karl Templer seems to have made it utterly desirable with his impressive and intricate, seductively complicated, chunky knitwear sweaters, layered woollen fabrics, soft leathers and sumptuous faux furs this season. Celebrating the brand’s 60th anniversary, Templer was trying to drive home the new direction of the brand’s style, to push forward his idea of dressing women who are now coming out to a new environment they’re trying to navigate for the first time post-pandemic when dressing finally begins to matter once more. His use of layering such ‘cosy’ and ‘comforting’ fabrics and jux - taposing textures complements the overall cocoon and ‘safety blanket’ like looks, silhouettes and heck, the theme of the sea - son’s collection. Of the 33 looks, they all encapsulate this notion of protection while being free. The movements of the knits, which look as though they would be burdensome, are liberating and worn with ease. The runway show even expressed this idea further by having the models step from the darkness into a spotlit section of the runway - then coming back into the light. Go forth into this new world, ladies, but go forth with a bit of a stylishly layered safety net/coat. As quoted by Samantha Conti in her review for wwd.com in March 2021, “It’s a journey back to dressing again, with more of a focus on the essential rather than the frivolous” Templer responded with, “There’s a sense of warmth, but also a strong attitude, and silhouette.” https://ports1961.com PORTS 1961

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