The Bite Magazine - Autmn/Winter 2020 - Issue 28

biteshoes The next shoe update was Avon in Cordovan; the slow veg- etable tanned horse leather considered one of the finest in the world. This latest version was created in collaboration with British tannery Claytons of Chesterfield who have been trading since 1840 and are recognised worldwide for their unparallelled quality. Vegetable tanning is a tra- ditional craft process that tanneries have handed down from father to son for over 200 years. The process itself is time-consuming, taking between one to three months. In 2018, Cheaney collaborated with Vivienne Westwood, with whom they have worked with for several seasons, to create a dynamic collection of shoes and boots. With DNA from both brands, the selection has Cheaney’s tradition- al Goodyear welting and quality craftsmanship combined with an influential, creative, and iconic design from the pioneer designer to form a versatile, expertly crafted, and striking collection of contemporary footwear. The following year, they teamed up with pioneering fash- ion and lifestyle brand, Tengri to launch a new interpreta- tion of the classic brogue. This unique limited-edition of 150 pairs in three signature styles for both men and women introduced the first brogue shoe that incorporated perfor- mance and material innovation with natural and sustaina- ble noble fibres. The Apex brogue shoes, the Vertex brogue boot, and Pinnacle Chelsea boot were crafted in ethically and responsibly sourced, single-origin, undyed leather. A layer of Mongolian sheep wool replaced the tradition- al rigid cork resin in the soles, and a lightweight Vibram Gumlite sole enhanced the shoes’ grip, cushioning, and du- rability. With the incorporation of heritage craftsmanship and the fundamentals of longevity, it takes 200 handcraft- ed operations to construct one single shoe with Goodyear welting to ensure a shoe can quickly and efficiently with- stand repairs and resoling. The latest launch from the iconic brand is the Cheaney x Richard Biedul capsule collection. It features three classic but contemporary pieces - Isaac, Vietri, and Steadman - amalgamated in an eco-conscious, performance-driven collection, suitable for those seeking style and substance. The collection features traditional Goodyear welt con- struction, luxe hi-shine rub-off calf leather, and qualifies for Cheaney’s full refurbishment service, to provide a sus- tainable, opulent trio of fine English footwear. A former solicitor, Artistic & Creative Director Richard Biedul started modelling after he was approached by a model agent one evening after work. After being offered a contract, he closed Oliver Spencer’s show at London Fashion Week. “As a solicitor, it was imperative that I had a 360-degree understanding of every project I worked on, and I took this approach into my new industry.” A fash- ion novice at the time, he asked many questions to gain as much information as possible to try and make sense of the industry. In 2018, Richard collaborated with Stacey Wood, founder of British brand King & Tuckfield to create a capsule cloth-