The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2019 - Issue 26

From The Deep Blue Sea bite drinks Made from sugar kelp in the deep north of Scotland, Jada Brookes discovers the award-winning Isle of Harris Gin. our own, bringing this special place and its qualities to the attention of a wider audience.” As with every distillery, there is a process in pro- ducing gin and other spirits. Whilst others may be made with wheat, raspberries, and other ingredi- ents, Isle of Harris Gin is made with sugar kelp: a large brown seaweed with a long crinkly blade-like foliage that grows up to 3 metres in length and has edible young stems. “Every drop is distilled here in Tarbert in our small copper gin still, known affec- tionately as ‘The Dottach’, [named] after a similarly fiery and feisty local woman.” The sugar kelp is hand-harvested by a local diver from the deep underwater forests of the Outer Heb- rides. At the Isle of Harris distillery, they discard, instead of recycling, the ‘heads’ and ‘tails’ of their spirit run, which leaves only the very best of the distillate’s ‘heart’. This is all captured in a beauti- ful glass bottle, ribbed and rippled like the seas of Luskentyre, a gentle azure rising from its depth. “There are subtle imperfections, dimples, and dips to hold it safely while you pour a generous meas- ure,” the brand says. Used to imbue the spirit, the Dottach combines the complex delights of nine carefully chosen botani- cals, namely the familiar juniper berries, followed by coriander seed, cassia bark, Angelica root, bitter orange peel, cubebs (an Indonesian spice), liquo- rice root and orris root. But it is the marine infused sugar kelp, also known by its scientific algae name ‘saccharina latissima’ that is the main ingredient in the Isle of Harris Gin and the key to the subtle coastal notes that mark out the drink. Each botanical ingredient has its character and con- tributes to the taste of the gin. As usual, juniper ber- ries form the basic gin character with green notes of leaf and pine. Coriander seed provides citrus and spice flavours, with discreet orange and grapefruit twists, while cassia bark lends a gentle bitterness to the mix, as well as bringing the welcome warmth of cinnamon and a degree of mixed spice. Angelica root gives some sweet floral notes and adds to the wider green grassy and herbal aspects of the spirit. Bitter orange peel paradoxically adds both bitter and sweet tastes to the mix, and cubebs give a pep- pery flavour with an almost ginger-like note, as well as contributing to the overall complexity. While liquorice root is not added to give a direct anise flavour, it instead builds on the sweetness. And fi- nally, Orris root brings it all together, smoothing and integrating the other botanicals to ensure a well-rounded finish to the disparate flavours. Here there is a balance of bitter and sweet, and gentle spice and soft floral. Whether you decide to enjoy Isle of Harris Gin on its own or with a few drops of their Sugar Kelp Ar- omatic Water to heighten the subtle coastal notes in your glass, you will find that this gin is a smooth and complex spirit. On the nose, there is a well-de- fined juniper note with pine needles, immediately followed by the fresh citrus notes of bitter orange, lime, and grapefruit. It also has a complex floral note of rose and wallflowers with crushed green herbs, coriander, and gooseberry, all underpinned by mixed spice. On the palate, this refreshing gin is balanced be- tween the bitter juniper and pine, along with sweet fruit flavours of mango, grapefruit, and orange. The green herb flavour of crushed coriander is devel- oped, creating a distinctive and smooth gin with a dry, flinty taste. To finish, you get an overall long, clean finish. As the juniper and citrus fade away, sweet vanilla and black pepper remain with a gentle reminder of the sea. Certainly, a great way to enjoy a glass of Isle of Harris gin. Whilst it is advised to have the gin neat, without dilution of any mixers, or with ice and a few drops of Sugar Kelp Aromatic Water, there may be some who wish to be more adventurous. In that case, the Isle of Harris distillery suggests adding tonic wa- ter, such as their favourite Walter Gregor’s Scottish Tonic, or simply your own. “Just add a splash, try not to drown the gin flavours. Finally, rim the glass with a wedge of red grapefruit showing plenty of fruit flesh, and add a slice to your final drink with just a brief stir. Enjoy!” The award-winning Isle of Harris Gin is only availa- ble directly from the Isle of Harris which has helped to create more local jobs and support their fragile island economy, shipping every order from the village of Tarbert. However, for those in a hurry, there is an immediate pick-up service from their ever-growing network of Click & Collect partners for a small fee. If you can’t get to Scotland, do not fear; Isle of Harris Gin is also available to enjoy in many of the best bars and restaurants across the UK and beyond. www.harrisdistillery.com