The Bite Magazine - Autumn/Winter 2019 - Issue 26

bite fashion something that we do subconsciously. As STAFFONLY says, “the moment you click on the checkout button, you have auto- matically become a part of the modern consumer culture. With the help of the thriving courier industry in China, the purchas- ing experience is smoother than ever.” They also rightfully say that “we no longer define communities by their generations but by their spending habits, examining what they buy as the differentiation tool between individuals. This has impacted friendships, relationships, and the communi- cation tools used by the generation. In some cases, judging peo- ple on their purchase history before meeting them has become the norm - this is the concept that served as the starting point for this collection.” The STAFFONLY ‘100% Consumer’ AW19 collection which could also be called ‘Beware of the Smartphone Zombies’ is a montage of different situations related to consumption that has been recreated. It reflects the reality of what e-commerce has led our lives to become. Being exposed to constant advertising, the desire to spend is ever-growing; a situation nurtured by both the customer and retailer. What the shopper buys is no longer meaningless, but symbolic of the pathway to their ideal life. Within the collection, witty details are representing the retail industry such as fold marks on pieces as if they have been just bought and accessorised looks with graphic labels declaring ‘fragile’ and ‘100% consumer’ among others. One outfit is com- pleted with its own dust bag while others are adorned with plas- tic shipping materials, such as airbags. With a variety of khaki, woven bag textured fabrics and a bright-colours palette, the col- lection portrays a distinctive, contemporary, consumer image. At the beginning of the catwalk show shown during Shanghai Fashion Week, the models are motionless in various positions before you see them start to tap away at their smartphones. They then walk behind each other in a circle, their eyes constantly on their phones. Soon they break out in their own direction as if they’re walking down the street or through town, narrowly col- liding into each other. And if they do lift their eyes from their phones, it is only for a moment. The slogan ‘Beware of Smartphone Zombies’ can be seen on the models’ mobile phone cases to reflect their behaviour at that mo- ment of disorder, numbness, and madness. All of their attention is fairly grasped by a bright screen (and this is probably the re- flection of light shining out of some of the models’ mouths), only breaking their concentration and mindless rhythms when the couriers and takeaways arrive, delivering items until the models can carry no more and the system breaks down. Some of the standout AW19 looks include a tan brown suit with clover-like patterns on the jacket, worn with a black and brown top and an orange tie loosely around the neck. A white padded long coat is worn over a white hooded top and white pants, and a turquoise shirt and trousers set that flares out toward the hem, is worn with a dark green coat. Another is an Assassin’s Creed- like outfit with a combination of hooded top, jacket, and pants in orange and a hooded raincoat in blue. STAFFONLY garments are available at stockists including Ma- chine-A in London and Dover Street Market in Beijing; Lane Crawford in Beijing, Chengdu, Hong Kong, and Shanghai; Cho- clab in Hangzhou; and Blank in Shanghai and Hangzhou, and others. www.staffonlystudio.com