The Bite Magazine - Summer 2019 - Issue 25

bite exhibition As you walk through this exhibition one thing for certain are the inspirations that Christian Dior was drawn to from his travels. Architecture, landscapes, art, and textiles from different countries and cities influenced the dresses that he made after visiting these places. You can also see how each of the creative directors interpreted their ideas of world travel in their own way such as the sari and kimono in the Galliano section. The exhibition also focuses on five of the countries which inspired Dior and his successors: Mexico, Japan, Egypt, Chi- na, and India. From embellishment techniques to the vibrant fabrics of the sari, the rich textile traditions inspired Christian Dior, which is found in the ‘Travel’ section. Saris and draped fabrics of the Indian subcontinent were evoked in his 1953 evening dress- es, some named after cities such as Agra and Lahore. While John Galliano featured dresses inspired by the jewels of the Maha- rajahs as well as Egyptian themed dresses. Perhaps the most noticeable inspiration was that of Christian Dior’s relationship with Britain. His first British fashion show was at London’s Savoy Hotel in 1950. He had a really romantic notion of Britain showing his collections in places like Blen- heim Palace in 1954 and frequently held shows in aid of charity. Many British wom- en wanted to wear his designs including Princess Margaret. The off-the-shoulder couture dress worn by Her majesty for her 21st birthday in 1951, alongside the official royal portrait, was her favourite dress of all. Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s current creative director, has changed the way inspiration is drawn from other cultures by recognising that it is no longer just about the clothes but the designer must be receptive to the current issues of the time. For the Cruise 2019 collection, Maria collaborated closely with the Mexican escaramuza horsewomen who influenced her collection, inviting the female rodeo riders to demonstrate their extraordinary skills at the show. Another attribute to the exhibition is that almost every section has a video, showing the catwalk shows, the creations of the gar- ments, interviews with designers, model fittings and even the making of the collec- tions. As well as showing examples of toiles (cotton prototypes), one of the films and images showed the highly-skilled couture staff known as Les Petites Mains, meaning literally ‘small hands’ at work. It was very educational and a wonder to watch. The Dior beauty products deserve an entire exhibition on their own. The Diorama sec- tion showcases accessories from costume jewellery and hats to shoes, bags, lipstick, and fragrances. The first perfume ‘Miss Dior’ released in 1947 named after Chris- tian Dior’s younger sister Catherine is on display at the exhibition. Lined up in cab- inets placed in a stand resembling a min- iature palace, the vintage perfume bottle is one of the many highlights of the exhibi- tion. As Dior said, “Perfume is the indis- pensable complement to the personality of women, the finishing touch on a dress.” Flowers are also a very important part of the exhibition. These were used as an ingre- “I think of my work as ephemeral architecture, dedicated Baccarat crystal bottle designed by Christian Dior for Diorissimo perfume, 1956 Photo © Laziz Hamani Christian Dior by John Galliano (b.1960), Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2004 Photo © Laziz Hamani Dior Héritage collection, Paris