The Bite Magazine - Spring 2016 - Issue 15

I t wasn’t just graduating with a degree in Fashion DesignWomenswear from Central Saint Martins Art and Design College in London that designer Jamie Wei Huang could count as an achievement in her career. She was also hired as one of the costume design- ers and tailors for the 2012 London Olympic and Paralympics’ Closing Cere- mony. Having worked in high-end fashion houses such as Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane during her studies, Jamie has learned from the best. Art also plays an additional part in her role as a fashion designer. In 2009, she was selected as an artistic representative for the Société Nationale Des Beaux at Louve in Paris; the following year, she was the finalist of the Taiwan National Large-Sized Oil Painting Competi- tion; and in 2011, won the Medaille de Bronze at Le Salon of the Société Des Artistes Français. These encouraging achievements have enabled the designer to develop a contemporary fashion and concept building as a foundation which is evident in her signature elements in design details and silhouettes. Other accolades include Nationale des Beaux, Arts in Louvre in 2012; Grazia Berlin Fashion Week Opening Show for SS14 and ‘Designer for Tomorrow’ in 2013; ‘ Elle Taiwan New Talent Award’ Winner and ‘ Vogue Italy International Talent Award’ Final List in 2014. It was after Jamie Wei Huang was fea- tured in the Top 5 of ‘Designer for Tomorrow’ Final list that she decided to create her own label in 2013. She showed her first collection for SS14 at Berlin FashionWeek and then pro- gressed onto London FashionWeek for her AW14 offering where she has been a permanent fixture on the schedule for every season since. For her SS16 ‘Nibbana’ collection, Jamie has secured Australian retail giant David Jones as a stockist and has a number of other established stockists including URSA, Runway2Street, Maison Noir, Alter Concept Store, The House of Elements and Bou- tique 51. With celebrity fans such as Lady Gaga and being featured in prestigious publications including Vogue China, Vogue Italia, Vogue Taiwan, Glamour and Marie Claire in such a short space of time, Jamie has achieved a lot. It is perhaps thanks to her combi- nation of conceptual ideas with modern silhouette that her collections have caught the eye of many. The essential components of her label is simplistic with clean, refined outline, masculine undertones and details of light metal and leather elements as well as strong pattern cutting that present a modern character story through the materials. Looking back to her very first collection, Jamie based this on the development of Op Art, an art form that plays with geometric forms and irritating effects. She admits that she doesn’t see a differ- ence between fashion and art, and this is why she regards fashion as traditional sculpturing and creates three dimensional designs. Using the idea of Op Art, Jamie began to work with dots and metallic fabrics combined with rounded, geomet- ric forms. She said, “I was searching for something futuristic that is very simple at the same time. And I wanted to create something that is in a way masculine but without too much volume.” Although the two components that play a huge part in her collections are the materials and the pattern cutting, Jamie would say that the colour palette in her first collection was more restrained than flashy, with a lot of white as a basis and hints of red, orange and blue. The materials used in this collection – ceramic and glass – are described as traditional ancient materials that have been around for thousands of years. Used as small, coloured dots and squares, these were neatly embellished into the clothes made mostly of silk and as a combination, the three dimensional material and the forms are the perfect adaption of the Op Art theme. Back to this season, Jamie continued in her self-expression through contempo- rary design using the Buddhist concept of Nibbana meaning ‘the afterlife’ for her SS16 collection.The materials used in this offering included metal trimmings, leather and luxurious fabrications, with light woven fabrics in white giving an impres- sion of heaven in the form of floating, wide-legged culottes and striking jump- suits while injects of scarlet and cobalt blue created a representation of hell. You couldn’t quite miss the bold devil motif on the biker jackets or statement bralets, while accessories of rucksacks and tote bags made from ponyskin and leather completed the looks. Each piece was interesting in every way with eye-catching geometric shapes that had you fixed and checking out every detail on each design. The purpose of this collection was for each person to perceive what heaven and hell meant to them through the designs based on their religion, culture, country of birth and personal experiences. It may be a change in direction for the designer but it was still distinctly JamieWei Huang. Looks featured on the catwalk included the Nergui Jacquard Bomber Jacket, Sports Bra and Pencil Skirt in Grey/Blue and Cream/Black; Volcano Off Shoulder Top and Skirt in Black/Red; Altan Jumper with Mask and A-Line Mesh Skirt in Black/Blue; Courtney Dungaree in Blue; Sarnai Long-Sleeved T-Shirt and Skater Skirt in Black/White; and Batu Leather Tank Top in Black and Altan A-Line Skirt inWhite. Jamie Wei Huang also has a collection of interesting and artistically designed shoes that you will not fail to notice such as the Nibbana Slip On Shoe in Black/ Cream and Blue/Red made from luxuri- ous silk and leather fabrications, with a slightly thick sole that gives an element of comfort; Nibbana Leather Sandals in Blue/Blue, White/Red and Blue/White with its metal trimming details, light joining links at the side and soft leather in vivid Blue Nappa Binding that edges the panel of 100% designed texture cow hide on this sandal; and Tuva Chunky Leather High Heel in Navy and White crafted from 100% leather and 100% cow hair on hide inspired by classic menswear last and featured in elegant and contem- porary shape. It has traditional leather shoes making details and is finished with extra comfortable platform. With so many amazing and intriguing designs to keep us mesmerised, we look forward to more JamieWei Huang collections. www.jamieweihuang.com bitefashion Cristina Lloyd gets mesmerised by Jamie Wei Huang’s SS16 ‘Nibanna’ collection that has all the hallmarks of a truly artistic fashion designer.