T
here is such an irresistible air of romanticism
that lies at the heart of international prêt-à-
couture brand Busardi’s collections, which is
refined by incredible craftsmanship, experience and
heritage. Busardi Muntarbhorn who inherited and
designed at Thailand’s oldest surviving house under
her mother’s name Yoswadee, co-founded the brand
Busardi with her sonTuck in 2009. Born in Bangkok in
1959, Busardi grew up in an environment surrounded
by sketches, mannequins and rolls of silk and chiffon.
However, during her teenage years, she decided to
pursue a career in architecture and landscape, and
graduated with a Bachelor’s degree in architecture
from Silpakorn University, Bangkok in 1983. She
went onto complete a Master’s degree in landscape
architecture from the University of Pennsylvania but
it wasn’t long before her passion and fashion heritage
called her to undertake a fashion design course at
the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York
before returning home to Thailand.
While maintaining a career in landscape architecture,
Busardi also helped her mother at her label and soon
took on the business full time.The designer strongly
believes that fashion and architecture are both
defined by human proportions, not two separate
worlds. At Yoswadee, she gained integral experience
in handcrafted couture, working closely alongside
her mother as a designer.When her mother retired
in 2000, Busardi became head designer and brand
successor of the label, and succeeded in bringing
together the refined art form of Thai and Western
cultures into high fashion. As a devotion of love and
respect, Busardi designed 10 gowns inspired by her
mother’s collections from the past, for theYoswadee
2011 Collection entitled ‘ATributeTo My Mother’ to
honour the loss of her mother in 2010. When the
Busardi brand was launched, the House of Yoswadee
was renamed House of Yoswadee and Busardi.
For their AW14 collection, Busardi brings a darker,
more sinister mood to the romantic aesthetic
that they have become renowned for. Using her
fascination with gardens and flowers, the designer
channels this inspiration into a sartorial narrative
based around a recurring darkened rose motif. In
season’s past, the Busardi woman was reserved and
modest but this season she is defiled into a wicked
world. As Busardi explains, “My girls are no longer
prim and proper this season. While holding onto
the romantic essence of the brand, I decided
to give this collection a subversive and wicked
edge. For with the rose, comes the thorn…”
Whilst the signature use of floral lace, three-
dimensional rose and petal appliqué and
embroidery continue to run throughout the
collection, the darker desires of a woman
shine through in the provocative slits,
shorter cuts, sheer panelling and bursts
of weighty adornments. Also seen in this
collection is profusion of sweeping skirts,
high necks and delicate detailing. For
instance, an aqua waterfall dress offers
a rare source of purity, highlighting the
start of life and the replenishment
of plants and gardens while the use
of rose printed silk zibeline on a
standout jacket and dress allow
the evil rose motif to blossom
beyond the appliqué and spill onto
the fabric.
While it may take on a new mood,
the classic dresses and separates
brings the collection back to the
traditional Busardi, where sumptuous
rich creations are bedecked with layers of
lace and oodles of tulle. The lavish abundance
of embroidery and rich colour palette such as
royal purple, navy, electric blue, crimson and
magenta in fabrics of lace, organza, taffeta, rose
printed silk mikado and Thai silk would make
the perfect evening wear for private parties,
opening nights and celebrity events. Also, with
the introduction of sharply tailored jackets,
peplum shapes and a trend-led micro-cape, this
will ensure that the Busardi woman remains
current both on and off the red carpet, while
the uncorseted style of dress offers the wearer
the freedom of movement needed to reflect her
modern style.
Busardi is based in Bangkok, where they also
own an eponymous boutique and the collections
are designed, produced and manufactured in the
heart of Thailand.
www.busardi.comCristina Lloyd
discovers the story behind international couture
brand Busardi and what makes their collections so red carpet
divine.
Busardi
The Rose and Thorn
bite
fashion