The latest reviews from a collection of designers at the couture paris fashion week shows.

ZIAD NAKAD
Couture Collection Spring – Summer 2019 

From the Orion, Ziad Nakad picks a star after star and magically transforms it into an extravagant piece that brightens the starless nights with a gleaming silver and shimmering gold. 

Just like a sky hunter, Ziad blends heavenly bodies motifs with star-shaped patterns and creates a constellation of dresses. Orion is a large hand that tosses diamond dust onto bare lands. 

Orion is a creative mind that scatters moon dust and fills the sky with sparkling flickers. Orion simply dazzles. 

COLOURS: PASTEL COLOURS , CHAMPAGNE, SILVER AND BLACK THEME: VINTAGE, AGED LIKE ROYAL CENTURIES EMBROIDERY: FOCUSED ON STONES CUT: FLOWY CUTS TO EXTRAVAGANT CUTS. 

https://www.ziadnakad.com

PATUNA   Collection Obsession Ethérique

Einstein told that the ether was a necessity for the the physical laws. «  Without the ether, the light couldn’t spread, and the Space nor the Time couldn’t even exist. »

At the beginning of the century XX, amongst the most respected scientist minds, some of them still used this old word, Ether, for calling the essence which fills the empty Space. They thought that the ether was a real substance somewhere between the physical matter and the pure energy. Their deduction was that the light waves can move from one point to another in what seemed to be an empty space. And we know how important light is important for Patuna.

The ether surrounds the physical body like a precious box. It is considered as a part of it, and disappears after the death.

Patuna delivers us an extravagant spring summer 2019 collection, with dresses who perfectly fit the feminine curves, made with « satellite-materials » around the body as an astral woman, fatal but still powerful. 

http://www.patunacouture.com

PATRICK PHAM – NUMBER 8

GUEST STAR FLORA COQUEREL

Symbol of fortune in Asia, lucky charm, infinite erected towards the sky, Patrick Pham is fascinated by the number 8 because of its plenitude and its perfection. This collection augurs well: Patrick mixed his asian traditions, the french-vietnamese designer changed radically his vision about the couture, including an insolent modernity, with a touch of humour, literarily hijacking the sport materials, but still keeping his lines and shapes who belong only to him. His « sportswear couture »  is a real surprise, mixing gaily colors, linking pop and street culture, combining denim, leather, calfskin, sequined lambskin, engraved with anaconda prints, handmade sequined embroideries. Ultimate fetish: his shoes collection is personalized as unique pieces.

Eight more reasons to love him…

http://www.patrickpham.fr

MARIA ARISTIDOU

Collection Symplexis

You don’t always know what ‘s hidden behind a closed door, yet even when you think you do, you always wonder if you are right.  A closed door is, more often than not, a mystery to all of us. We are humans and curiosity is, whether we like it or not, a human imperfection.  And when that door has an arch and a keystone, intertwining to form a coherent symplexis, it becomes a mystical and wondrous gate, behind which imagination can run wild! 

So, open it. If you dare.

Maria Aristidou’s Spring/Summer 2019 knit couture collection was quite the challenge. 

Inspiration for the pattern came from a single vintage arched door found during a walk inside the old city walls of Nicosia. The simplicity of the door’s facade, together with the complexity of the engineering behind it, gave rise to a series of design trials that lead to this fine timeless pattern for the fabrics of SS 2019 collection.

Hand embroidery embellishments on a colorful palet of luxurious knit fabrics made by the designer, capture the beauty and the essence of a woman.

Unexpected cuts on timeless classic designs with modern details are the signature of the designer’s Spring/Summer 2019 “Symplexis” collection.

In 2015 Maria Aristidou introduced her first A/W 2015 Limited Knit Scarf Collection, a beginning of a new concept in her designs.

The magic of knitwear inspired her to first explore and then create, using luxurious threads and elaborate techniques, various knit patterns.

The craftsmanship of detailed hand embroideries adds to the uniqueness of Maria Aristidou’s fabric collections for the couture evening and accessories.

The process of fabric production for each collection starts from the very beginning.  Yarns such as wool, viscose, lurex, cotton, silk and velvet (depending on the season the designer works on) are ordered from Paris and Italy.  Then, a series of patterns, first designed on paper, are passed on to the computer knit programmer to be then processed by the programs set for the knitting machines.  What follows is a series of testings to establish which yarn will be used on which machine and for which pattern, how thick or thin the fabric will be, colour sampling combinations, hand-embroidery design testing, quality and durability checks etc. The only fabric that is actually bought, and not produced by the designer, is the lining needed for each garment. 

Once the desired patterns are developed, and the fabric samples are finalised and tested, the fabric production takes place.  That is, cutting and sewing (with finishings done with knit trimming on each piece of the garment) along with hand embroidery.

All production takes place in Cyprus.

https://www.mariaaristidou.com

La Métamorphose

EDEN GARDENS

We came to the flower garden for picking. Beautiful, do you know how many flowers, tea roses, Pale roses of love that crown your head, Fade every summer?

Their stems will bend to the rising wind. Rose petals have fallen in the path. O Belle, pick them, since our dream flowers will fade tomorrow! Put them in a cup and all closed doors, Alanguis and cruel, thinking of the dead days, We will see the agony of roses Raves of perfumes. The big garden is defaced, my egoist, Day butterflies to other flowers have fled, And only from now on will come to the sad garden, the moths.

And the flowers will die in the profane chamber. Our roses alternately shed their pain. Beautiful, sob a little … Every flower that fades, It is a love that dies! Guillaume Apollinaire, There is, “Picking”, posthumous publication, 1925.

In the gardens of La Métamorphose, the woman is certainly a flower that hatches, but this woman is conquering in her femininity, delicate in its strength, it is a multi-faceted woman, muse, but also leader. Pastels emphasise hatching, whites purity and light. The precision of the cuts, the determination.

https://metamorphose-paris.com/contact/

KATRINE K.

HEIRLOOM RENAISSANCE

Time flies relentlessly In the world we live in. As counterpoise to the austere urbanism and rapidity of change, Katrine K. turns to the subject of rejuvenating true values and pays homage to principles which are significant and far-reaching for a modern woman in the long-run. The family ties. The dynasty. The heirs and heiresses. The mother-daughter bond. 

When a mother wishes to share her best with the next generations, she passes on her skills and wisdom, her grace and manners, as well as her symbolic assets of pride.
Heirloom Renaissance tells a story that a mother would recount to her daughters. A saga of her own victories achieved through synergy of tenderness and strength. 

She would teach her daughters that the power of a woman is revealed with courage and confidence. She would reminisce about fearless self-expression and about exerting flagrant beauty as an asset to triumph in a man’s world. 

The collection is all about this interrelation and succession – the energy, excellence and class that are passed from generation to generation through family heirlooms. This is fashion that is not subject to age. It marks birth of collectables, which will be revived by future heiresses in manners appropriate to their zeitgeist. 

The silhouettes range from youthful maximalism to elite elegance, whilst constantly underlining the value of artisanal work, as seen in meticulous draping, scrupulous tailoring and handcrafted accessories. From the early 19th Century and The Belle Époque to the fusion of 70s and 80s, the collection constitutes blossoming of the women’s power and admiration of beauty. 

The gigot sleeves and variety of intricately embroidered undergarments are joined by power tailoring, conveying couture elements to present-day reality.
The juxtaposition of femininity and power is traced throughout the collection: the symmetrical in contrast to the asymmetrical, the stiffness of corsets versus the fluidity of plissé and beaded or leather fringes. 

Heirloom Renaissance symbolises the revival of women’s clothing as wearable heritage artifacts – the pure essence of Pret-a-Couture. 

http://www.couturenew.com/katrine-k/

ARMINE OHANYAN

DEEP HARMONY   “The artist uses the Nature as model, the Nature provides his inspirations” (Victor Cherbuliez)

 The play between shapes, lights and movement comes together to create a skillful harmony. We are transported to an unreal world where the beauty of nature is preserved. This is a new collection that represents all the richness of the sea floor, its intense colors and all its unique and surprising beauty.

However, nature is under threat by mankind so the designer draws attention to the causes of its destruction, such as climate change and other pollution on the species, wildlife and the biotope.

Thus, when using plastic waste as embroideries and illustrating the alteration of the colors of the aquatic flora, the Designer denounces the stakes of ecology.

The use of new technology as 3D printing, using materials less common in textiles such as silicone and techniques like laser cutting reinforces her creations a modern image, even futuristic, revealing her as the incarnation of the new generation in Haute-Couture. 

The play between shapes, lights and movement comes together to create a skillful harmony. We are transported to an unreal world where the beauty of nature is preserved. This is a new collection that represents all the richness of the sea floor, its intense colors and all its unique and surprising beauty.

However, nature is under threat by mankind so the designer draws attention to the causes of its destruction, such as climate change and other pollution on the species, wildlife and the biotope.

Thus, when using plastic waste as embroideries and illustrating the alteration of the colors of the aquatic flora, the Designer denounces the stakes of ecology.

The use of new technology as 3D printing, using materials less common in textiles such as silicone and techniques like laser cutting reinforces her creations a modern image, even futuristic, revealing her as the incarnation of the new generation in Couture.

http://armine-ohanyan.com/en/soon-en/

ALIN LE’ KAL

Reflective Elements

Alin Le’Kal is as much defined by the generations of expertise and finesse that preceded him as he is by the raw femininity and indulgence of his own designs. A combination that promises his clients that one moment… that brief dream of unadulterated light that they will cherish for the rest of their lives.

Melbourne, Australia, the home of four seasons in a day and capital of the diverse melting pot of dreams was the perfect location for Alin to embrace and embark on his journey. The melange of requests for gowns and dresses from family friends served as a catalyst to growing his range of artistry. Building on early explorations, his studies in RMIT University gave him the firm foundation of knowledge and craftsmanship which served to streamline his aspirant and decadent designs.

Alin’s debonair relationship with textiles then grew over a decade in the industry, culminating in a rich expression of light, of flight, of shining brilliance that becomes the focal point of any memorable occasion. And no client demands this more than the brides that seek Alin Le’Kal’s prowess with extravagant trains and intricate finishings, serving to illuminate their inner beauty and enhance their feminine silhouette with his signature flourish.

This is mirrored throughout his dalliance with captivating crystals, with angelic feathers and radiant light sewn through each piece presented this year in the collection ‘Reflected Elements’. Contrary to the quick and tawdry of today, Le’Kal is more than just a moment, Le’Kal is a memory steeped in elegance and confidence.

http://alinlekal.com

ADELINE ZILIOX

Under the Shell SS19 Collection – A silhouette, like a silent shout  – The unspoken but proud body shakes,  – The body never lies…

After  “Back Yard Bird”, Adeline Ziliox makes her second Couture Collection. The body as a showcase for our feelings, for our emotions, our soul, and the cloth, showcase itself for this body telling so many stories, lives, hopes, dreams. These clothes, like a carapace or an armor, hide the real ego but reveal its deepness. A warrior woman. This recurrent theme is an everlasting inspiration for the designer. These women who daily fight for their freedom, for their rights, their lives. These women are from the present and the past. Powerful women who shine with their grace, their femininity and fragility. 

The shapes are structured, volume, oversize shoulders, like they carry the entire world.  The graphics design accentuate their own femininity, some technical matter like neoprene who met sometime chiffon or sometime satin. Bolding  mixing whose give to this collection his own style. Always the designer is passionate by motifs she has long worked printed form. This collection is the opportunity to create some motifs through embroidery. Autodidact, she practices intuitively, spontaneous and instinctively. Her embroidery are making in France in his workroom in Strasbourg, like all her collections. All the collection is 100% made in France.

https://www.adeline-ziliox.com/en/

 

Images courtesy: www.mephistopheles.fr/pr 

About The Author

The Bite News Team

THE BITE MAGAZINE MEDIA caters for the confident and stylish woman and confident men who knows exactly what they want in fashion,beauty and a luxury lifestyle of living. It’s designed to take the reader on a visionary journey of self-discovery in a fresh and unique fusion of styling through amazing and exciting pictures, rich editorial content and catwalk experiences. We provide the absolute on current fashion and lifestyle news and reviews around the world. With years of experience within our team. We like to keep our readers informed on up-and-coming designers and make-up and hair stylist trends, as well as covering established fashion, music and film icons. We pride ourselves on featuring exotic holiday destinations and the best restaurant cuisine in the UK, as well as reviews on those high calibre cars you’d love to be seen driving, and also include the latest on artists and their inspirational work.

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