Another fashion month has come to a close with an exceptional end thanks to a very fabulous Paris Fashion Week. There was ethereal beauty from Valentino, the usual grunge from Saint Laurent (I just can’t even!) and of course something completely unexpected from Chanel. Shimmer is definitely having a moment and if the catwalks are anything to go by we’ll definitely be wearing white for Spring/Summer ’16. Here’s my pick of the very best of Paris.
Karl Lagerfeld is not one to shirk from social commentary (see last seasons fashion protest). So of course, whilst the industry is bemoaning the travelling circus effect of designers staging shows in ever more far out locations, he chose to create Aeroport Chanel Cambon this season. Because why fly first class when you can fly Chanel! The set was a delightful picture of what Monsieur Lagerfeld feels air travel should entail; relaxing lounges, serene staff and of course Chanel luggage trolley to take you direct to gate No.5. The models strutted out in relaxed tweed, one pulling a quilted carry on luggage behind her, others reminiscent of an often papped celebrity skulking off a long haul flight, hiding firmly behind their oversized sunglasses. There was a lot of layering with full skirts thrown over trousers and tweed jackets tied carelessly around the waist. Yes, it was a little kitschy but in the hands of Karl Lagerfeld it worked rather nicely.
Sarah Burton’s vision for Alexander McQueen has always been a softer, more romantic approach that stays true to the houses history for drama and impeccable details. This season was the gentlest yet, as though she had let her feminine approach free with abandon to create beautifully romantic pieces. Inspired by 17th Century migrants and the religious refugees who took up in London’s Spitalfields and the artisanal crafts they brought with them, Burton explored with the idea of heirlooms, with gentle frays and weariness to the fabric that only added to the sense of romance.
This season Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took flight from their dear Rome and travelled to the plains of Africa to inspire them. Fringing was prolific, decorating exquisite coats, capes and skirts in that delicate way that could only be Valentino. Exoticism filtered through with African prints depicting tigers and leopards as well as tribal markings whilst the use of feathers upped the drama whilst adding an artisanal feel. Of course it wouldn’t be Valentino without a series of red carpet worthy gowns, each more delicate that the last with a fragility that one certainly wouldn’t expect in the plains of Africa.