It’s always an exciting time when fashion week rolls into London. Whilst we may not have the revered ateliers of Paris or the craftsmanship of Milan one thing London excels at like no other capital is creative vision and innovation. Whilst it may not always be pretty or commercial, you can rest assured your eyes may feast upon something completely unique. Here’s my round up of London’s hottest shows this season.
Simone Rocha has risen swiftly through the echelons of the fashion industry and become quite the fashion week darling. Having developed a signature for feminine flirty clothes with a heady dose of East End undone, Rocha’s collections are always littered with the sort of garments that little girls dreams are made of. Her show notes for this season read “Tapestry and tulle, tweed and lace” – a succinct introduction to what was a playful, romantic and historically nuanced collection. There were luxurious black velvet dresses, brocade dresses cut with a nod to historic bodices and frills artfully flowing through seams. Whilst her label is still young, Rocha has most definitely stamped out her mark as one of London’s hottest designers.
Thomas Tait was one to watch this season as he presented his first collection since receiving the inaugural LVMH Young Fashion Designer Award. The designer humbly says that the €300,000 essentially saved his label from going out of business and thankfully so. As he ascertained with his AW15 show, his talent is most definitely worthy of the acclaim. ‘Spaghetti Western’ was his theme this season, with oversized neckerchiefs morphing into draped silken tops, loose trousers in block colours, sheriffs badges adding a touch of humour. But it was the outwear that he excelled at, from a divine mustard number accented with pleats to a PU & leather patchwork that sounds wrong but somehow worked so well.
Burberry is always the big ticket show for London, guaranteed to have a front page worthy front row filled with the labels celebrity fans. Christopher Bailey is renowned for creating commercial appeal that doesn’t come at the expense of creativity and his AW15 collection was full of pieces set to become bestsellers. Case in point is this seasons poncho, which took centre stage, almost shadowing the houses signature trench, and as with the monogrammed shawls of last winter they’re guaranteed to become one of the most coveted items of the season along with the over the knee boots they were paired with. A louche, bohemian spirit was woven through the show, with tapestry prints splashed across dresses and blouses that were paired with fringed suede skirts and ponchos. The whole look was relaxed, a little vintage and free spirited.